Gen2 R1 Fuses and eFuses Info & Locations

[Sundar]

As many of you may know, the gen2 does away with the cabin fuse box and has implemented software resettable e-fuses. I have a some more info on this that may be helpful.

these e-fuses are only for low voltage systems powered by <= 48V. There is an additional fuse panel for the HV systems (including the 120v inverter). In the Gen1, this panel was underneath the body and above the battery pack - requiring the entire pack to be dropped to service. In Gen2, this panel is underneath the body AND under the battery making it *easier* to service. However, accessing it still requires lifting the car up or getting underneath and removing some of the underbody protective panels. Rivian service told me that it is NOT advisable to service this yourself given the risk of both exposure to HV loads (up to 400v presumably) and the risk of damaging the battery and underbody should the panels not be re-attached properly.

Just wanted to share this in case it’s helpful to anyone. I learned this because my 120v inverter failed and both the inverter (under the drivers seat in gen2) and an HV fuse in the underbody panel needed to be replaced. I don’t know the details on the fuse type but it’s uncommon enough that it had to be ordered from HQ and was not on hand in the service center.

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[Dark-Fx]

Rivian had to do this for my Gen1 R1S, and yeah, the battery had to come out.

 

[good2go]

As many of you may know, the gen2 does away with the cabin fuse box and has implemented software resettable e-fuses. I have a some more info on this that may be helpful.

these e-fuses are only for low voltage systems powered by <= 48V. There is an additional fuse panel for the HV systems (including the 120v inverter). In the Gen1, this panel was underneath the body and above the battery pack - requiring the entire pack to be dropped to service. In Gen2, this panel is underneath the body AND under the battery making it *easier* to service. However, accessing it still requires lifting the car up or getting underneath and removing some of the underbody protective panels. Rivian service told me that it is NOT advisable to service this yourself given the risk of both exposure to HV loads (up to 400v presumably) and the risk of damaging the battery and underbody should the panels not be re-attached properly.

Just wanted to share this in case it’s helpful to anyone. I learned this because my 120v inverter failed and both the inverter (under the drivers seat in gen2) and an HV fuse in the underbody panel needed to be replaced. I don’t know the details on the fuse type but it’s uncommon enough that it had to be ordered from HQ and was not on hand in the service center.

I have gen 2. A CarPlay add on says to tie into a fuse under driver side panel. There are no fuses there anymore?

where are physical fuses in R1s gen 2?

 

[Sundar]

There are no physical fuses in the passenger areas of the gen2 afaik. You’ll need to tap into a 12v wire - I know you can do so from the center console pogo pins but I’m not sure how many watts can be safely drawn. At least 36w but not sure how high it can go. You can also get 12v from the rearview mirror housing. Finally there’s one in the back under the subtrunk - more info about that in a gen2 speaker upgrade discussion.

 

[good2go]

There are no physical fuses in the passenger areas of the gen2 afaik. You’ll need to tap into a 12v wire - I know you can do so from the center console pogo pins but I’m not sure how many watts can be safely drawn. At least 36w but not sure how high it can go. You can also get 12v from the rearview mirror housing. Finally there’s one in the back under the subtrunk - more info about that in a gen2 speaker upgrade discussion.

What’s a pogo pins?

I want the power right above the center console. 12v down to 9v..

I have wired an entire sprinter van. I could always turn off all power before working. Are people splicing into live wires. If you short out something, how are you going to reset!

Rivian is making it hard to add on external devices.

 

[Sundar]

The pogo pins are what power the camp speaker when you dock it.

 

[good2go]

The pogo pins are what power the camp speaker when you dock it.

I think I could wire into that. But it might be tricky to get power to above center console.

any idea on shutting off power?

just work with live wire and hope you don’t short out the circuit

 

[Sundar]

Well I think because they are efuses they reset themselves if they short. Plus it’s 12v so it’s not like you can get hurt.

 

[Sundar]

You don’t even need to splice into the wire if you can create a PCB to mimic the camp speaker and then just tap the 12v from the pin. I’m working on something that does just I’m downstepping to 5v/3a usb-c PD

 

[good2go]

You don’t even need to splice into the wire if you can create a PCB to mimic the camp speaker and then just tap the 12v from the pin. I’m working on something that does just I’m downstepping to 5v/3a usb-c PD

Do you have a link to a pub connector that matches camp speaker?

 

[DeafPug]

I have gen 2. A CarPlay add on says to tie into a fuse under driver side panel. There are no fuses there anymore?

where are physical fuses in R1s gen 2?

If you ordered the kit from EVSportline, there is a selection box for model year 22-24 (Gen 1) vs 25 (Gen2). I believe they ship Gen1 kits with the fuse tap and the Gen2 kit with a module that draws power from the OBDII port. If you got the wrong installation kit, I suggest contacting the vendor to discuss how to swap for the proper installation kit.

 

[Sundar]

Nah. I’ve got a gerber file that can be sent for PCB fabrication but it won’t do more than 24w safely. I might be able to get a more powerful version in a month or so. Am working on some powered accessories for the dock but right now using those lower power PCBs with a built in 2a fuse.

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