On a good day, it takes 2 hours to be in a rural area. Amtrak on LI is iffy even on a good day! In case of a mass escape situation, I cannot imagine how it would work and if it would even run.
But I get your point.
Given that those are my two options, I'm curious, which one would be the right choice. I feel like most people would go with a combustion engine car. But maybe you'd be able to charge an EV in some fashion in a post apocalyptic world, while refueling an ICE would eventually not be an option...
Yes! If a customer with this battery type is loyal enough to want to upgrade to a Rivian with a larger battery pack, Rivian should buy back at a rate that would incentivize a trade-in.
I'm not planning on testing the limit, but don't want the bottom 10% to suddenly disappear in cold weather and then for the car to get stuck (I read a couple of accounts here that had that experience and their car was stuck in the middle of the road).
I charged it to 100% about three times a week and would make sure to let the charge drop to 20-30% in between charges. Then about a month ago, got the calibration complete message.
I'm not exactly sure what effect it's had. I can still drive a 50 mile distance and see a 100 mi drop in range (in...
A couple of months ago, Rivian sent out a message about remote calibrating LFP batteries. And instructed us all to charge to 100% regularly and to not drive the car below 20% while it's calibration was going on.
Then I received a message that the calibration was completed.
Now, I'm wondering...
Effectively, my 2026 dual motor standard battery R1S has an optimistic range of 140 in cold weather. But as someone said above, it may be as low as 100 miles. Let me explain:
at 100% charge, in cold weather, the display shows a range of 234 miles. Then, Rivian says you shouldn't drive the...
So it’s as though the box, lets say, that holds the charge shrinks. So the charge takes a larger percentage of the shrunk ‘box’. But in reality it’s the same absolute amount of charge.
Then as you drive, the ‘box’ warms up and expands. The percentage quickly drops and it seems like you just...
Ok, so all these calibrations take place once you're in the vehicle and driving. And the BMS doesn't predict it.
Well, not I understand the drop as I start driving. Thanks.
Have to admit that I don't understand this SoC vs battery capacity dynamic that you mentioned. Quoting you:
"The energy available goes down a bit, but it is from a battery that the truck thinks has lower capacity since it is cold. As you drive the truck and it warms the battery back up, you'll...
OK, so let's say all kinds of things happen that require the battery to calibrate itself and tell you how much range you have. Fine. Then, your car should know how much range you're going to have.
And then, when you drive, assuming that the weather conditions have remained the same, and...
I'm told a lot of it is energy that's needed to keep the battery itself warm. I also think that the app connectivity is a potential source of the drain. Be curious to see someone test that out by leaving a car out for a couple days and checking it with the app on occasion and then running the...