Please help with AC charger port disable!

[Hamal]

He's asking if the wall chargers wiring has any loose screws internally which may be causing the fault on the Rivian side.

He's also asking if you've tried charging it using different chargers, not just one AC charger. Such as at home, at work, at a library, or anywhere else that may offer level 2 charging to ensure it is indeed a vehicle issue, and not a charger issue.

Also, make sure the AC pins in the charge port are clean and debris free, with no signs of damage, it could be failing to charge as a result of poor isolation.

My surface level research points to your onboard AC charger, or a bad lead interfacing it to the charge port as being the culprit if none of the above are the issue.

Bringing a vehicle like this overseas where there's no service support is a huge gamble, and unfortunately there's been a few horror stories.

Might be worthwhile seeking someone in the DR that has experience servicing EV's, that can take a look at the physical connections.

Yes, all that is checked, also Ive charged in station, other 3 different locations, and same result:

"Starting...." and the message on the picture I uploaded.

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[R1Thor]

I think that your assertion that this is likely software is likely based in hope and not reality.

Sorry to say, but it's sounding like it's a hardware problem and you're going to need to have your BMS/ onboard charging system serviced.

Hopefully I'm wrong, but I'm here to point out that at this point: signs are not pointing to software as a likely culprit.

 

[Hamal]

I think that your assertion that this is likely software is likely based in hope and not reality.

Sorry to say, but it's sounding like it's a hardware problem and you're going to need to have your BMS/ onboard charging system serviced.

Hopefully I'm wrong, but I'm here to point out that at this point: signs are not pointing to software as a likely culprit.

ONe of the options that they told me by phone, itto be services by comnnecting a computer to reset all history of faultsand error. If this fixes it, this should be software, hopefully.

I dont know what im gogin to do at this point. However I just found a DC slow charger 3.5kw for my home, in china. That bypasses de OBC AC,and passes de currentdirectly by DC port.I think this could be a solution, but i dont know whats the lowest kw that de DC cahrger ofd the rivian can receive.

Do you know whats the minimun charging of DC port?

 

[R1Thor]

ONe of the options that they told me by phone, itto be services by comnnecting a computer to reset all history of faultsand error. If this fixes it, this should be software, hopefully.

I dont know what im gogin to do at this point. However I just found a DC slow charger 3.5kw for my home, in china. That bypasses de OBC AC,and passes de currentdirectly by DC port.I think this could be a solution, but i dont know whats the lowest kw that de DC cahrger ofd the rivian can receive.

Do you know whats the minimun charging of DC port?

This is certainly uncharted territory and I know we can't answer this with confidence, but I did do some searching, and from what I can tell, you're likely to encounter the following:

1- The good news is: I believe BMS will 'take whatever it can get' insofar as DC derates when thermal or battery thresholds are hit anyway. SO, it can very much take 'less than' the highest charge rate, and I don't think there's a floor set on that in any meaningful way. In fact
2- From what I can tell, I believe the Rivian BMS will simply close its high-voltage contactors and accept the current directly into the pack.

The Catch:
These vehicles are almost devastating with respect to parasitic drain and in fact:
When a Rivian wakes up to charge, it initializes its cooling/heating loops, runs the battery management system, boots up the vehicle's onboard computers, and powers the cooling pumps. And they tend to stay on with DCFC, and I'm not convinced these systems will stay off (I really don't know, to be honest, but I'm guessing here) because that's typically an AC activity and as noted, typically DC comes with the FC, so you might anticipate:

• The Math: If the truck's thermal management and computer systems pull roughly 1 kW to 1.5 kW just to keep the vehicle "awake" and monitored while charging, only about 2 kW to 2.5 kW of that 3.5 kW input is actually making it into the battery cells in this configuration.
• The Result: On a massive 135 kWh Large pack, a net input of 2 kW means it would take roughly 67 hours to charge from empty to full. (not that anyone usually runs completely from empty to full, but you can interpolate based on your charging percentage and goals how significantly long this will take you).

So, bottom line is: we don't know, but it doesn't look great.

Best of luck to you!

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