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Wall charger installation at home - suggestions and recommendations? ⚡️⚡️

Gshenderson

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ajdelange

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I don’t consider it broken. YMMV.
It isn't whether you consider it broken or not. The problem is that the NFPA does. They think NM-B's ampacity is 55 A and you have installed it on a 60A circuit thus violating NEC. The risk to you is that in case of a fire (a fire from any cause) your insurance company, upon discovering the NEC violation, may refuse you coverage. Unlikely? Well we hope so but if you are willing to accept that risk then it isn't broken.

My reasons for bringing this up again are two. First, I wanted to make sure that you were aware (saw the previous post) that this installation is in violation. Second, I want to make sure that other readers are aware that No. 6 NM-B (Romex) should NOT be used on a 60A circuit.
 

psklenar

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I'm having my charger installed by the same electricians who installed my standby generator, transfer switch and load shedder a year & a half ago. Just making sure everything is setup safely and to code. I'll have to drop the amps from 48 down to 30 or 20 & not run the dryer or range at the same time during a power outage, but I'll still be able to charge.

Actually, they are here as I type this and they found a way to fish the cable from the utility room to the garage (40' away) thru the basement's finished ceiling without having to cut any drywall (other than the small hole punched thru to the garage) or running conduit outside as I had expected!

I've gone with the ChargePoint Home Flex (CPH50) in order to take advantage of EverSource's installation rebate ($500 towards charger and $500 towards wiring) and their summer demand credits (up to $200/yr for at least two years).

pat----
 

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I may go the route of adding the 4th neutral wire to simplify switching the RIvian charger and current 14-50, breaker would be swapped as well. If I run the neutral wire for the Rivian charger, do I leave it unconnected in the panel and just leave it unstripped at both ends or does code usually require something more such as capping or taping off?
I plan on running 4 conductors, as well. I'm going to connect the neutral in my panel, and then cap it off in a two-gang junction box mounted behind my EVSE.
 

ajdelange

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I'll have to drop the amps from 48 down to 30 or 20 & not run the dryer or range at the same time during a power outage, but I'll still be able to charge.
Have them put a load shedding module or contactor operated through the "on generator" dry contacts on most ATS transfer switches to disable charging when the generator is running. You don't want to be using propane to generate electricity to charge your car - very inefficient/expensive. Put a manual bypass around the dry contacts for situations where you MUST charge from the generator.
 

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ajdelange

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I plan on running 4 conductors, as well. I'm going to connect the neutral in my panel, and then cap it off in a two-gang junction box mounted behind my EVSE.
The other suggestion I also make is that you have a loop of extra cable somewhere in there in order to facilitate installation of whatever new equipment may go in that location eventually.
 

psklenar

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Have them put a load shedding module or contactor ...
Yep, that was the plan from the get go.


... You don't want to be using propane to generate electricity to charge your car - very inefficient/expensive. ...
Well, I'm on NG (piped to the house at construction in 2002) for heat & hot water, so they piped the genset into that.

Most outages over the past years have been well less than a day and in that case I don't foresee a "need" to charge off the gen. But if I get stuck with another extended outage like from Tropical Storm Isaias (2020) where I was power free for a week and which led to my buying the generator in the first place ;) , I'll be able to charge at a lower amp if need be.

pat----
 

TripWir3d

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Does anyone know if the portable charger pulls a lot of energy if its just plugged into the wall? I recently had a NEMA 14-50 outlet installed and have been pulling it out of the outlet during the day when I'm not charging my truck. Wasn't sure if I was wasting my time doing that or not...
 

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Does anyone know if the portable charger pulls a lot of energy if its just plugged into the wall? I recently had a NEMA 14-50 outlet installed and have been pulling it out of the outlet during the day when I'm not charging my truck. Wasn't sure if I was wasting my time doing that or not...
You should avoid (un)plugging a NEMA 14-50P, whenever possible. The NEMA 14-50R is not designed for frequent (un)plug cycles and you do NOT want that receptacle to become loose.

Technically the EVSE will use a little power when plugged in (but without a vehicle attached) but it will be minor -- much like leaving your TV plugged in, but "off". I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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ajdelange

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Example: The Tesla UMC pulls 7 W.
 

Bobthebuilder352

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It isn't whether you consider it broken or not. The problem is that the NFPA does. They think NM-B's ampacity is 55 A and you have installed it on a 60A circuit thus violating NEC. The risk to you is that in case of a fire (a fire from any cause) your insurance company, upon discovering the NEC violation, may refuse you coverage. Unlikely? Well we hope so but if you are willing to accept that risk then it isn't broken.

My reasons for bringing this up again are two. First, I wanted to make sure that you were aware (saw the previous post) that this installation is in violation. Second, I want to make sure that other readers are aware that No. 6 NM-B (Romex) should NOT be used on a 60A circuit.
Meh. No 55A breaker. Round up rule.
 

TripWir3d

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You should avoid (un)plugging a NEMA 14-50P, whenever possible. The NEMA 14-50R is not designed for frequent (un)plug cycles and you do NOT want that receptacle to become loose.

Technically the EVSE will use a little power when plugged in (but without a vehicle attached) but it will be minor -- much like leaving your TV plugged in, but "off". I wouldn't worry about it.
Awesome! Thank you!
 

timesinks

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Meh. No 55A breaker. Round up rule.
The round up rule is for sizing the breaker not the wire. If you had a 44A continuous load, you could use 55A wire with a 60A breaker. This install is a 48A continuous load, requiring 60A ampacity for the wire. That's the code.

The wires inside a romex cable, however, are 90C THHN wires. The code requirement to not exceed the 60C ampacity does seem a little arbitrary (though I'm sure it's there for good reason). The romex install will most likely be fine from a safety point of view, but it isn't technically up to code. And I second @ajdelange in wanting to make sure readers who may be pursuing their own installs are aware of the code. If somebody decides to do it anyways fully understanding the decision they're making, that doesn't bother me at all.
 
 




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