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Vampire drain - what's the latest battery % loss people are getting?

rivian_germany

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This is from the most recent owners Manual which was released last week (3/27/2023) regarding Shipping mode:

1680623424635.png


With the above in mind, I'm a bit skeptical that it will reduce Vampire Drain from 1.5kWh/day to 0.1kWh overnight as one poster mentioned above. But, I will give it a try...
Ok Step 1 of "turning off shipping mode" is bogus. When you arrive, put the vehicle in park? It is already in Park when in shipping mode!

Edit: I just checked on my truck today. It was in shipping mode for 120 hours, and it charged the 12v batteries once every day for 2 hours and 40 minutes each time (see my other thread with graph). According to the trip meter, it used 4.3kW, or 4300W/120h = 36 Watts continuous draw. This is better than before, when I was getting around 44 Watts draw.
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Am I correct in assuming that the R1T uses RFID for the key fob and key cards? Is there a way to disable bluetooth on the R1T like on an iPhone? The idea being to only use RFID for access.
 

godfodder0901

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Am I correct in assuming that the R1T uses RFID for the key fob and key cards? Is there a way to disable bluetooth on the R1T like on an iPhone? The idea being to only use RFID for access.
Key fob uses Bluetooth.
 

godfodder0901

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My drain findings the past 2 weeks; mild temps 40-55, non heated garage, PAAK enabled w/proximity disabled at home (FOB proximity off), ~14hrs nap time. It has been <1% with range loss of 1-3 miles.
 

NY_Rob

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So after the last update "shipping mode" is actually making an impact? In the past it literally did nothing meaningful.

I'm currently at 137mi range, it's 9:30AM NY time... just put my R1T in shipping mode. Will not be using it today, never had PAAK setup, will not open the app and my Fob is kept in a Faraday box in the house. Will open the truck 9:30AM tomorrow morning to see the results of shipping mode since I updated my SW last week.
Okay, encouraging results after putting my (non-garaged) R1T in Shipping mode and not using it and not opening the app for exactly 48hrs:
4/4 9:30AM - 137mi range
4/6 9:30AM 135mi range


-On the latest update
-PAAK never setup
-Did not open Rivian App during 48hr test period
-Fob kept in Faraday box inside house


If you're wondering about our local outdoor temps during the 48 test period (since my R1T lives outdoors), the temperature data from my personal rooftop WX Station is below..
Rivian R1T R1S Vampire drain - what's the latest battery % loss people are getting? 1680788295304
 

NY_Rob

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Thanks @rivian_germany ...

Your results line up with mine, you saw 800wH/day loss in Shipping mode, I recorded 1mi/day loss in Shipping mode. Close enough when you consider rounding on the GOM.

So, now we know the latest version of Shipping mode actually turns a lot of systems off. If your findings suggest a good portion of the 800wH/day loss is due to 12V battery recharging, it would be pretty simple to set up a 12V trickle charger on the two 12V batts and see if keeping them charged via an external source (which draws way less then 800wH/day) can get Vampire drain (at least in Shipping mode) down to almost nothing/day.
 

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rivian_germany

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Thanks @rivian_germany ...

Your results line up with mine, you saw 800wH/day loss in Shipping mode, I recorded 1mi/day loss in Shipping mode. Close enough when you consider rounding on the GOM.

So, now we know the latest version of Shipping mode actually turns a lot of systems off. If your findings suggest a good portion of the 800wH/day loss is due to 12V battery recharging, it would be pretty simple to set up a 12V trickle charger on the two 12V batts and see if keeping them charged via an external source (which draws way less then 800wH/day) can get Vampire drain (at least in Shipping mode) down to almost nothing/day.
I'm absolutely certain that if you kept the 12v's at 13v, the Rivian would be tricked into thinking they were full and would never switch on the inverter to charge them. It would still switch on if it sensed the PAAK nearby though. But if you were leaving it at home and going on a trip, you could do it. Then again, maybe better to just plug in if you have a power source. The only thing trickle chargers would save is constant charge cycling of the AGM batteries.
 

NY_Rob

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I'm absolutely certain that if you kept the 12v's at 13v, the Rivian would be tricked into thinking they were full and would never switch on the inverter to charge them. It would still switch on if it sensed the PAAK nearby though. But if you were leaving it at home and going on a trip, you could do it. Then again, maybe better to just plug in if you have a power source. The only thing trickle chargers would save is constant charge cycling of the AGM batteries.
Well, it would be an interesting experiment, and I just happen to have a dual battery trickle charger for all lead-acid battery types sitting around that I was using for our boat till I replaced it's two batteries with home made Lifepo4 cell batts two years ago.
 

TheCaDean

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Thanks @rivian_germany ...

Your results line up with mine, you saw 800wH/day loss in Shipping mode, I recorded 1mi/day loss in Shipping mode. Close enough when you consider rounding on the GOM.

So, now we know the latest version of Shipping mode actually turns a lot of systems off. If your findings suggest a good portion of the 800wH/day loss is due to 12V battery recharging, it would be pretty simple to set up a 12V trickle charger on the two 12V batts and see if keeping them charged via an external source (which draws way less then 800wH/day) can get Vampire drain (at least in Shipping mode) down to almost nothing/day.
Vampire drain is almost exclusively a rivian problem. I have two EV6s a Niro and have researched the Ford lightning. None have vampire drain. In fact I can park my ev6 for 2 weeks at the airport and maybe lose 1% at most. I believe in is going to have to do a total recall on these vehicles. https://insideevs.com/news/605563/rivian-r1t-ford-f150-lightning-vampire-drain/
 

rivian_germany

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Well, it would be an interesting experiment, and I just happen to have a dual battery trickle charger for all lead-acid battery types sitting around that I was using for our boat till I replaced it's two batteries with home made Lifepo4 cell batts two years ago.
Thinking about it more, I think it would be difficult to achieve this for three reasons:
1. You'd have to time it so that you started charging both batteries at the same time and same voltage
2. You'd have to charge when the vehicle is not already charging the 12v's, i.e. after a 12V "charge session" (that means the vehicle would need to be locked and not know you're there)
3. You'd need to make absolutely sure the voltage is between 12.5v and 13v at all times

If you didn't satisfy these three, the software might go into a critical error or something. I wouldn't want to be responsible for causing you to brick your truck. Even if you did everything correctly, the software might still see something odd about it...

Ok, I feel better lol..
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