Upgraded the sub in R1S with aftermarket Alpine SWR-T10 Subwoofer

[chops]

i replaced my stock sub this past weekend with a JL 10TW1-2 and a JL MX300/1 and NVX sound deadener mat. was pretty straight forward to be honest. the JL sub fits perfectly inside the plastic enclosure which i nearly completely covered in sound deadener.

tested without covering the enclosure and it didn't sound optimal. i also rolled on sound deadener onto the area directly behind it, as well as the interior of the wheel well. there's some resonance in there somewhere still, but pretty much unnoticeable unless you're parked with the music blaring.

thanks to everyone else for posting where the 12V wire is! i used simply posi-taps to tap into the 12V for power and remote. used an existing grounding bolt near the sub for the ground and used wirefly heat shrink solder butt connectors for everything else. i soldered simple 16 gauge speaker wire > RCA connectors to input into the amp and 10 gauge copper stranded wire for the 12V power.

I haven't done a sub/amp install in over 10 years, so this was a fun little project. ended up hiding the amp in the 3rd row flip up/down area which is accessible via like 6 bolts. when putting it all back together i only used 2 bolts to make maintenance or replacement easier. also got a 50 pack of plastic "tree" retainer clips since i busted most of them removing the spare tire liners.

results are impressive, but sitting in the 3rd row is a bit annoying with so much bass. the R1S could do better with a small 6" sub somewhere in the front as well to improve the sound image, but that's a project for another day perhaps

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[Progolfer82]

i replaced my stock sub this past weekend with a JL 10TW1-2 and a JL MX300/1 and NVX sound deadener mat. was pretty straight forward to be honest. the JL sub fits perfectly inside the plastic enclosure which i nearly completely covered in sound deadener.

tested without covering the enclosure and it didn't sound optimal. i also rolled on sound deadener onto the area directly behind it, as well as the interior of the wheel well. there's some resonance in there somewhere still, but pretty much unnoticeable unless you're parked with the music blaring.

thanks to everyone else for posting where the 12V wire is! i used simply posi-taps to tap into the 12V for power and remote. used an existing grounding bolt near the sub for the ground and used wirefly heat shrink solder butt connectors for everything else. i soldered simple 16 gauge speaker wire > RCA connectors to input into the amp and 10 gauge copper stranded wire for the 12V power.

I haven't done a sub/amp install in over 10 years, so this was a fun little project. ended up hiding the amp in the 3rd row flip up/down area which is accessible via like 6 bolts. when putting it all back together i only used 2 bolts to make maintenance or replacement easier. also got a 50 pack of plastic "tree" retainer clips since i busted most of them removing the spare tire liners.

results are impressive, but sitting in the 3rd row is a bit annoying with so much bass. the R1S could do better with a small 6" sub somewhere in the front as well to improve the sound image, but that's a project for another day perhaps

I got these from Amazon a while back, looks like I'll use the yellow taps with the 10g. I took your recommendation on the 10g over 8g and returned my 8g amp wiring kit. I'm assuming these taps will work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=dp_iou_view_item?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[chops]

I got these from Amazon a while back, looks like I'll use the yellow taps with the 10g. I took your recommendation on the 10g over 8g and returned my 8g amp wiring kit. I'm assuming these taps will work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=dp_iou_view_item?ie=UTF8&th=1

they'll probably work just fine, but posi-lock taps are the best taps available for a secure tap. if you use those you'll need to make sure they cut into the jacket well enough and are making contact with the metal inside the tap, then do a good job crimping with a crimper, not plain old pliers

 

[GSGun]

I got these from Amazon a while back, looks like I'll use the yellow taps with the 10g. I took your recommendation on the 10g over 8g and returned my 8g amp wiring kit. I'm assuming these taps will work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN/ref=dp_iou_view_item?ie=UTF8&th=1

I used a 12 gauge with the largest posi-tap. 10 gauge won't fit and 8 gauge is massive relative to the pink wire anyway. Crutchfield has a pretty good selection for posi taps too.

 

[Progolfer82]

I used a 12 gauge with the largest posi-tap. 10 gauge won't fit and 8 gauge is massive relative to the pink wire anyway. Crutchfield has a pretty good selection for posi taps too.

I returned the 8g and got 10g wire kit. the yellow taps on the Amazon link says it for 10-12g wiring.

 

[Iamuwere]

i replaced my stock sub this past weekend with a JL 10TW1-2 and a JL MX300/1 and NVX sound deadener mat. was pretty straight forward to be honest. the JL sub fits perfectly inside the plastic enclosure which i nearly completely covered in sound deadener.

tested without covering the enclosure and it didn't sound optimal. i also rolled on sound deadener onto the area directly behind it, as well as the interior of the wheel well. there's some resonance in there somewhere still, but pretty much unnoticeable unless you're parked with the music blaring.

thanks to everyone else for posting where the 12V wire is! i used simply posi-taps to tap into the 12V for power and remote. used an existing grounding bolt near the sub for the ground and used wirefly heat shrink solder butt connectors for everything else. i soldered simple 16 gauge speaker wire > RCA connectors to input into the amp and 10 gauge copper stranded wire for the 12V power.

I haven't done a sub/amp install in over 10 years, so this was a fun little project. ended up hiding the amp in the 3rd row flip up/down area which is accessible via like 6 bolts. when putting it all back together i only used 2 bolts to make maintenance or replacement easier. also got a 50 pack of plastic "tree" retainer clips since i busted most of them removing the spare tire liners.

I should have used this location. I ended up putting in in the spare tire well on the right side. The upper tray still fits in, but your location is cleaner. I might reroute things

 

[chops]

I should have used this location. I ended up putting in in the spare tire well on the right side. The upper tray still fits in, but your location is cleaner. I might reroute things

if you do, the metal here is a bit uneven so i used some foam tape to cover the metal plate then drilled a few small holes and screwed it in with some sheet metal screws. it's nice and secure, and i can check if the amp went into protect or something quickly. so long as more springs don't break! they're hot glued on, which is terrible. i drove a few tiny screws into spring mounts for good measure

 

[Progolfer82]

they'll probably work just fine, but posi-lock taps are the best taps available for a secure tap. if you use those you'll need to make sure they cut into the jacket well enough and are making contact with the metal inside the tap, then do a good job crimping with a crimper, not plain old pliers

Thank you. I'll take your recommendation, and I'm going to check some of my local stores today for the posi-lock taps. Thanks again! Great setup btw, and I'm going to try and mount the amp in the same location, too!

 

[GSGun]

I returned the 8g and got 10g wire kit. the yellow taps on the Amazon link says it for 10-12g wiring.

It's 10-12 gauge on the pink wire and 12-14 gauge on the amplifier wire. I tried to use a 10 gauge and didn't fit.

 

[derichio02]

As an aside, I was very close to pulling the trigger on an upgraded sub setup like the OP but ended up redoing my eq settings after fat fingering my original settings. I used to have a pronounced V shape, but now it's more of a shallow bowl. Gotta be honest, the system thumps now! Has me second guessing the idea. Some rock songs are a little flat, but most modern rap, edm, even TSwift (daughter) all have boomimg bass.

Hey will you post a pic of your EQ please. Also Meridian or Rivian system?

 

[rkalbiar]

What about something like this? Seems like it could be an easier option, assuming we can audio inputs fairly easily, and decent results?

JBL BassPro Hub:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109BA...db7S9s5hs4riiOUPMNjXKmYu4gRjxIFxoCpOsQAvD_BwE

 

[nkohlimd]

Really appreciate everyone's help- I'm tackling this project this weekend. Have almost everything pulled out and ready to put in the sound deadening. Any tricks on removing the subwoofer from the enclosure- that black goop is tough and I don't want to strip the screws- heat gun? Solvent? Thanks in advance.

 

[GSGun]

Really appreciate everyone's help- I'm tackling this project this weekend. Have almost everything pulled out and ready to put in the sound deadening. Any tricks on removing the subwoofer from the enclosure- that black goop is tough and I don't want to strip the screws- heat gun? Solvent? Thanks in advance.

For me it didn't matter about stripping the screws or not. I aggressively torqued them out with a drill. The mounting did not match up to my new subwoofer and I ended up drilling new screws into the plastic box.

 

[rkalbiar]

The replaced sub is definately way to go if you have the ambition. I went with a Cerwin Vega spare tire sub (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0861JBRKC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Fits fine with R1S spare. Sounds very good (but nowhere near as good as an upgraded 10" would sound.). Food for thought for the lazy ones (like me).

Where did you get the audio inputs from?

 

[sac602]

The power was the pink wire from the first post (driver side) the inputs are from the sub. I think there are pics / descriptions in the thread. If you can find it I will see if I bookmarked it.

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