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DTown3011

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They are "enough" but if you ever think you might overload the vehicle even just a little bit, those tires will be overloaded too. I wouldn't trust them.
Yeah, seems like they are very close. I don’t ever plan on towing and the most gear I’d be hauling is a few bikes and some other stuff but I don’t wanna take a risk.
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PostMinivanDad

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Yeah, seems like they are very close. I don’t ever plan on towing and the most gear I’d be hauling is a few bikes and some other stuff but I don’t wanna take a risk.
Just to understand, why did you consider the lower load rated DM-V2s? Are all the Nokian products in 275/50R22 with the proper load rating still that hard to come by for you guys in the States? They were super easy to find in my area... I know shipping and duty wouldn't be cheap, but it might be something to investigate.

Edit: the non studded version of the H10 SUV is missing the SKU in the Nokian catalog. If you cant find the R5 but still want to go studless, try SKU T431583, should get you the studless vs the studded SKU TS32535.
 
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DTown3011

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Just to understand, why did you consider the lower load rated DM-V2s? Are all the Nokian products in 275/50R22 with the proper load rating still that hard to come by for you guys in the States? They were super easy to find in my area... I know shipping and duty wouldn't be cheap, but it might be something to investigate.
2 reasons - I've always run Blizzak's on all my vehicles in the winter so just went to what I know. I can find the Nokian's on a few online shops, but they are $100+ more expensive than the Blizzak's which is another reason for considering the B-Stones. I paid about $800 for my DM-V2 Blizzak's and finding it admittedly hard to swallow $1800 for the Nokian's....but maybe that's just what tires cost these days!

Rivian R1T R1S Snow Mode Needed! - My first snow drives in R1S and R1T 1669178688963
 
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PostMinivanDad

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2 reasons - I've always run Blizzak's on all my vehicles in the winter so just went to what I know. I can find the Nokian's on a few online shops, but they are $100+ more expensive than the Blizzak's which is another reason for considering the B-Stones. I paid about $800 for my DM-V2 Blizzak's and finding it admittedly hard to swallow $1800 for the Nokian's....but maybe that's just what tires cost these days!

1669178688963.png
Gotcha.

Although the Hakkapeliitta 10 SUV is a bit cheaper than the R5 and, from my experience from having both unstudded Hakka (non R series) and Blizzaks, they do last longer than the Bridgestones – hard to say if the wear difference would be enough to recoup the 30% premium.

I cant speak on the wear for the R5s – I only put 3K miles on the R3s I put on my minivan last year – I would venture they seem about similar to Blizzaks.

Good luck with your search.
 

DTown3011

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Gotcha.

Although the Hakkapeliitta 10 SUV is a bit cheaper than the R5 and, from my experience from having both unstudded Hakka (non R series) and Blizzaks, they do last longer than the Bridgestones – hard to say if the wear difference would be enough to recoup the 30% premium.

I cant speak on the wear for the R5s – I only put 3K miles on the R3s I put on my minivan last year – I would venture they seem about similar to Blizzaks.

Good luck with your search.
I'm on season 3 with my Blizzak's, ordered Dec 2020 and this will be 3rd winter on them with plenty of tread life left. We don't drive a ton - if they wear even better, might be worth it.
 

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I hate to be the bearer of bad news but our Canadian friend @1SikhRivian asked about snow mode at the Vancouver open house tonight and they told him there is nothing in the works.

Per Wassym, their VP of Software, they are working on "a snow mode" (per a reddit conversation)
Rivian R1T R1S Snow Mode Needed! - My first snow drives in R1S and R1T 1669182363260
 

SeaGeo

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I'm on season 3 with my Blizzak's, ordered Dec 2020 and this will be 3rd winter on them with plenty of tread life left. We don't drive a ton - if they wear even better, might be worth it.
What rim do you have?
 

DTown3011

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SeaGeo

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Installed on a Ford Explorer Limited with 20”
I meant on the R1T, but I think I misunderstood. Are you looking for a tire, or just hoping to transfer the blizzaks from your existing Ford?
 

DTown3011

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I meant on the R1T, but I think I misunderstood. Are you looking for a tire, or just hoping to transfer the blizzaks from your existing Ford?
Oh no I’ll need new tires my R1T will have 22s and a totally different load.
 

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Hi all, I did a couple of videos yesterday here in Denver on some pretty slippery roads. I was surprised (as were others) that it didn't perform as well as I expected. At one point, the SUV slid down into the gutter (no damage) just because I was stopped on a sloped road. Not great. This was on the 22 sport tires. Later than evening (when my wife brought the truck home) I went out again in the truck (on 20s) to compare. Much better, but still a bit slippery. HILLS might be a problem for these vehicles. Especially downhill. I also switched over to Conserve for driving around town which does help with the back end slide out problem. My takeways:

1 - Snow Mode is needed (but Conserve helps to keep the back from spinning out)
2 - 20s are better in the snow
3 - Weight makes the hills and slopes sketchy - BE CAREFUL

R1S (on 22s)





R1T (on 20s)

*edit: I am new to this forum and the do's/dont's/best practices for replies and topics and feature requests, etc. If you see this and have any advice on how I could have posted better for the forum or in a different method and/or place, please let me know :)

------
AGREE COMPLETELY

I think I was out driving my R1T (20" AT tires) same day/time with this denver recent snow storm , and I have to say I saw a bunch of trucks and other vehicles sliding around - it was especially slippery and icy that day - however, I am starting to get concerned with how high the regenerative breaking is in the snow/ice as it's very easy to want to take your foot off the accelerator when you start to slide, or hit a patch of snow or someone switches lanes in front you, etc - older vehicles you just coast but that sudden applicaiton of breaking in snow or ice conditions is very tricky to get used to! I REALLY wish I could turn off regen breaking on a setting to Lowest possible (much like it is on a full charge when it's reduced) during those conditions. I am really hoping it's a future option with a 'snow mode'

I also do not like the fact that driver and cruise control are pretty much unusable once the camera in the front is covered from snow or fog- I was driving from Denver to boulder in recent blizzard like conditions( bombing snow coming down and against my direction right towards me) and noticed 3 things I did not like: 1) The stock wipers did not work very well , so I upgraded to some heavy duty snow/ice Rain X ones hoping that helps - I could also have not been crushing the defrost as much as I should 2) *** This one was tough, the lights are so bright it felt like I was on a mushroom trip and as if I could see every snowflake coming at me in some sort of starwars lightspeed (see pic attached) action. It was very distracting and I wish there was a way to literally turn down the intensity of the lights - or at least an option to only use fog lights or something - from what I tried there is only 'lights' and 'lights + fog ( front and side) which did not help - a snow mode having better light controls to dim down the brightness a bit or something would be great in these conditions. 3)This could have been user error but seemingly the camera was coverd with snow or fog or ice and driver + was not available, which is fine in those conditions, but, it did not give me the ability to even use cruise control which I really wanted to use on this road and conditions. In an older car you can always use cruise control if you want, and I kept gettting 'adaptive cruise control is unavailable right now ! I should be able to use cruise control whenever I want ,just cruise control.

Would love any feedback on this thread and experience in a response, DM, or a link to another thread covering some of these if anyone has the time !

Rivian R1T R1S Snow Mode Needed! - My first snow drives in R1S and R1T Screen Shot 2022-11-23 at 1.09.53 PM
 

joelster

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I don’t mean to seem dense here but how, exactly, would Snow Mode work? What would it do that you couldn’t do by changing you regen settings and using the accelerator pedal carefully?
 

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I don’t mean to seem dense here but how, exactly, would Snow Mode work? What would it do that you couldn’t do by changing you regen settings and using the accelerator pedal carefully?
I don’t have my truck yet, but I have had a warm weather test drive and read others’ report their experiences since winter started. Even on it’s lowest setting as soon as you lift off the accelerator, the regen brakes pretty hard. Hard enough that going downhill or around a curve with ice it could cause you to slide uncontrollably.

Braking is basically the last thing you want to do in those situations. In an ICE vehicle just taking your foot off the gas is usually the solution, or if going downhill one could put their vehicle into a lower gear which doesn’t allow for a faster speed and doesn’t require braking.

Most snow modes dial down the torque/ acceleration a little so you don’t slip when driving from a stop, and tune the traction control differently. With the Rivian most think having lower or no regen as an option would probably do the trick.
 

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Braking is basically the last thing you want to do in those situations. In an ICE vehicle just taking your foot off the gas is usually the solution, or if going downhill one could put their vehicle into a lower gear which doesn’t allow for a faster speed and doesn’t require braking.
So here's the thing. In an ICE the engine is always turning, so there will always be some resistance to locking a wheel while coasting. That engine braking is similar to regen and is highly desirable. The big difference is that in a true 4x4 with all wheels connected to the same power source that added force helps prevent lockup. In the Rivian with 4 completely independent motors you can get lockup if too much regen is applied to any one wheel. This is where we actually want a simulated "locker" setup...but is also problematic because you can so easily lockup all 4 and be sliding without the vehicle knowing. Although I'm sure they could use accelerometer data to know that all wheels are locked up and the vehicle is still moving. My point is that you definitely don't want zero regen, else there's no resistance against the friction brakes and it'll be even easier to lockup. You almost want the opposite with a small amount of forward power (like creep on some EVs) to help minimize lockup with light brake application. Obviously the Rivian can't change gear ratios. The only way you get that similar effect is varying amounts of regen, the max usable depends on coefficient of friction (mu) of the surface you're on....which can be different for each tire and will change constantly. All that to say it's not a simple problem and isn't easily comparable to how an ICE operates.
 

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So here's the thing. In an ICE the engine is always turning, so there will always be some resistance to locking a wheel while coasting. That engine braking is similar to regen and is highly desirable. The big difference is that in a true 4x4 with all wheels connected to the same power source that added force helps prevent lockup. In the Rivian with 4 completely independent motors you can get lockup if too much regen is applied to any one wheel. This is where we actually want a simulated "locker" setup...but is also problematic because you can so easily lockup all 4 and be sliding without the vehicle knowing. Although I'm sure they could use accelerometer data to know that all wheels are locked up and the vehicle is still moving. My point is that you definitely don't want zero regen, else there's no resistance against the friction brakes and it'll be even easier to lockup. You almost want the opposite with a small amount of forward power (like creep on some EVs) to help minimize lockup with light brake application. Obviously the Rivian can't change gear ratios. The only way you get that similar effect is varying amounts of regen, the max usable depends on coefficient of friction (mu) of the surface you're on....which can be different for each tire and will change constantly. All that to say it's not a simple problem and isn't easily comparable to how an ICE operates.
Yes I definitely agree with you. Yours is a much better technical description than I could have written. As you said, no ICE truck has motors at each wheel (or regen braking) so it’s an interesting puzzle to solve that will probably include us needing to adjust our habits a bit in certain situations.

I have only driven an R1T for 40 minutes on my test drive (in summer), but I can see how the standard amount of regen would not be desirable on ice going downhill. I personally would want some regen because a little bit of resistance in those situations is good. My recollection from my drive is that even slightly lifting off the accelerator really caused that regen to kick in hard. If a snow mode could help feather that in a little and smooth out that transition I think people would feel much safer. Some others have said they would like to be able to turn regen off completely, which I guess is fine if one wants that option, but I wouldn’t do that.
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