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mgc0216

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It's more like 20% charge rate reduction for 40amp. 48amp installation would also cost more and require an available 60Amp breaker vs 50Amp for 40Amp charging. Charge rate must derate the circuit size to 80%. 14-15 outlet really gives flexibility to change out chargers as well as quickly switching to the included charger in the event of a failure. If the wall charger is hardwired, you'd be SOL and have to charge on 120v, which is approx 3 miles per hour of range gained!
I think the situation I am in i'm going to need another breaker panel. i had a 50amp breaker in mine that was wired to a 14-50 in the garage that the former owner used for a welder. But, we coopted that when we installed a hot tub a few years back. So the wiring is pulled from the garage to the breaker box still, but there is no space.

I need to get my electrician friend over to look at all of it as he knows what's what since he did the hot tub install. I am wondering if he's better off putting a new panel in the house using that existing wiring to the (detached) garage or if he just runs a new line (however that works) to a panel in the garage.
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DeafPug

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I think the situation I am in i'm going to need another breaker panel. i had a 50amp breaker in mine that was wired to a 14-50 in the garage that the former owner used for a welder. But, we coopted that when we installed a hot tub a few years back. So the wiring is pulled from the garage to the breaker box still, but there is no space.

I need to get my electrician friend over to look at all of it as he knows what's what since he did the hot tub install. I am wondering if he's better off putting a new panel in the house using that existing wiring to the (detached) garage or if he just runs a new line (however that works) to a panel in the garage.
Definitely work with an electrician on looking at your options. Depending upon the circuit breakers that you currently have installed in your panel, you might be able to install Tandem Circuit Breakers like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-...TL-Tandem-Circuit-Breaker-QOT2020CP/100021761 to open up some spots in your panel. There are also Quad Breakers that have a dual (240 Volt) circuit in the middle between two single (120 Volt) circuits. One of those options *may* free up enough space to let you avoid replacing the whole breaker panel with a larger panel.
 

stynes

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I am wondering if he's better off putting a new panel in the house using that existing wiring to the (detached) garage or if he just runs a new line (however that works) to a panel in the garage.
I highly recommend doing both. You'll have to put in a new breaker (and possibly panel, the dual breakers someone else posted above could help you) and use that to wire into your existing cable. I would recommend, assuming you've got heavy duty enough cable, to use it to put in a new sub panel in your garage. That will help you immensely with any future expandability and since you've already got the cable run, assuming it's sufficiently rated, then why not. That's what I'd do, anyway.
 

jameslandry

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I want additional circuits, but my main electrical panel is not spacious enough. I donā€™t want to sound like a salesperson now, but all I need is a tandem circuit breaker right?
 

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I want additional circuits, but my main electrical panel is not spacious enough. I donā€™t want to sound like a salesperson now, but all I need is a tandem circuit breaker right?
Depends on if your city's electric inspector will sign off on that. Mine will not.
 

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timesinks

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I want additional circuits, but my main electrical panel is not spacious enough. I donā€™t want to sound like a salesperson now, but all I need is a tandem circuit breaker right?
Tandem breakers are fine as long as your panel is rated for them and for the total number of circuits you are installing.

Where things get challenging is they don't make GFCI tandems. What could happen is four of your existing circuits could get rewired onto tandems opening up two slots for a full size 2-pole breaker. This all heavily depends on details (manufacturer, load calcs, NEC code version affecting GFCI requirements, etc etc etc).
 

Pzilly

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It's more like 20% charge rate reduction for 40amp. 48amp installation would also cost more and require an available 60Amp breaker vs 50Amp for 40Amp charging. Charge rate must derate the circuit size to 80%. 14-15 outlet really gives flexibility to change out chargers as well as quickly switching to the included charger in the event of a failure. If the wall charger is hardwired, you'd be SOL and have to charge on 120v, which is approx 3 miles per hour of range gained!
Old thread I know but this is important that most don't realize your average 14-50 socket from big box for 15 bucks aren't 100% duty cycle, I've seen several melt doing less then dealing w the load and heat EV changing brings, in fact this is why code is to have the charger set at 80% of the circuits rating, plus plugs add way more connections and fail points.. if a plug is your wish I highly recommend an industrial one like Hubbell. I know they are 80 bucks but whats your house or life worth.

Also once a unit is hard wired it is easily swapped out if it fails, it's just 3 wires. Just my .02 but do a Lil research, it's scary stuff what happens to cheap part's.

Peace
 

SeaGeo

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Good catch. I think I may have said 8500 somewhere else, but I'll go with less than 8000. Looking forward to seeing how that prediction ages. One month in and it still seems about right.
It appears Rivian beat your prediction but more than 300%. šŸ˜

Just jabbing you in good nature, as someone else brought this thread back up and it jogged my memory. Glad you were wrong!
 

ironpig

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It appears Rivian beat your prediction but more than 300%. šŸ˜

Just jabbing you in good nature, as someone else brought this thread back up and it jogged my memory. Glad you were wrong!
Eh, I'm sticking with my prediction.
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