PORTABLE REFRIGERATORS for Rivians -- 12V or 110V??

kylealden

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I asked CS about the exact size of both the frunk and bed of the R1T to confirm if my yeti 75 cooler would fit and received the following information. Based on this, the yeti wont fit in the bed with the tonneau cover closed unfortunately, 1/2in too high but should in the frunk. I figure this would be useful information for this conversion also.

Dimensions for the front trunk in the R1T and R1S:
  • Depth (Max with cargo shelf removed): 577mm or 22.7″
  • Depth (with cargo shelf installed): 373 mm or 14.6″
Deeply bummed by this. I got my Dometic based on CS frunk depth numbers which apparently reflected the "cargo shelf removed" depth. The bottom is not level without that so it's likely the fridge won't fit in the frunk after all - even if it is tall enough at the shortest point (unclear), it won't be level 🙁

Maybe I can print up some inserts to flatten the bottom, but it's a shame they released a somewhat misleading number early.
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TAZ

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Deeply bummed by this. I got my Dometic based on CS frunk depth numbers which apparently reflected the "cargo shelf removed" depth. The bottom is not level without that so it's like the fridge won't fit in the frunk after all - even if it is tall enough at the shortest point (unclear), it won't be level 🙁

Maybe I can print up some inserts to flatten the bottom, but it's a shame they released a somewhat misleading number early.
Agreed! It appears we need more details about when the cargo shelf is removed since its smaller but deeper. I can ask and post the response.
 

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I’ve been holding off on buying one until I can measure the frunk. Did anyone by chance bring a tape measure with them to Normal to get the dimensions of the lower part under the shelf?

If that is too narrow/small for a dual zone Dometic or ARB, where will folks put their electric cooler? We know it is too tall to fit in the bed with the tonneau closed.
 
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Lil'O Annie

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It doesn't look like there's a 12V outlet in the bed area (only in the frunk, cab and gear tunnel), so even if you wanted to put a fridge in the bed with the cover open, you have to re-route a 12V connection, or use a separate power source.
1633568192952.png
 
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crashmtb

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It doesn't look like there's a 12V outlet in the bed area (only in the frunk, cab and gear tunnel), so even if you wanted to put a fridge in the bed with the cover open, you have to re-route a 12V connection, or use a separate power source.
1633568192952.png
plug in to 120v in the bed. Most of these fridges come with an adapter.

seems silly there’s no 12v in the bed.
 
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Lil'O Annie

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plug in to 120v in the bed. Most of these fridges come with an adapter.

seems silly there’s no 12v in the bed.
That's true. But, it's my understanding that the 12V is more efficient.
 

Aroohoo

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That's true. But, it's my understanding that the 12V is more efficient.
DC is more effecient overall assuming the final compressor, cooling plate, etc is designed to run on DC. 120v would require running Rivian's inverter which isn't 100% effecient.

As most fridges are designed for DC, so even if it is dual power, in usually converts the AC to DC to run the compressor or cooling plate

So, the real question would be even though AC is less effecient, what is the impact of that? A domestic CFX3 seems to be a 240W fridge. If conversion ineffeciencies running off of AC, it'll take 280W or so to power it.
Doesn't seem like a very big hit.

Hopefully I didn't get my calcs wrong.
 

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I have an IceCo JP42 (44 Quart) that I love. It draws about 45(ish) Watts on the full cycle, once at temp, it drops down to about 3-4 Watts and will run off my solar generator for about 5 days if I don't deploy the solar panel (with the panel, it will basically run forever as best I can tell).

That said, it's 1/2 inch too tall to close the tonneau ([email protected]#!), and way too tall with the Frunk shelf in place.

Not quite sure how or where this thing will fit... (maybe tilted in the gear tunnel? ...guess I'll try and jam it in there and see what I'm dealing with).
 

crashmtb

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I have an IceCo JP42 (44 Quart) that I love. It draws about 45(ish) Watts on the full cycle, once at temp, it drops down to about 3-4 Watts and will run off my solar generator for about 5 days if I don't deploy the solar panel (with the panel, it will basically run forever as best I can tell).

That said, it's 1/2 inch too tall to close the tonneau ([email protected]#!), and way too tall with the Frunk shelf in place.

Not quite sure how or where this thing will fit... (maybe tilted in the gear tunnel? ...guess I'll try and jam it in there and see what I'm dealing with).
Should fit fine in the front trunk sans shelf. It’d be nice to have dimensions of the front trunk floor.
 

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It’d be nice to have dimensions of the front trunk floor.
Agreed... I'm not sure if it's wide enough or long enough for my little toy to snuggle down into it.

It also means there is a huge box right smack in the middle of the Frunk that will make packing other stuff around it, a bit of a struggle (both size wise, and to make sure the cooler has enough space to breathe and not cook itself).

...might be time to "take less crap when camping"...
 

crashmtb

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Agreed... I'm not sure if it's wide enough or long enough for my little toy to snuggle down into it.

It also means there is a huge box right smack in the middle of the Frunk that will make packing other stuff around it, a bit of a struggle (both size wise, and to make sure the cooler has enough space to breathe and not cook itself).

...might be time to "take less crap when camping"...
I think it’ll fit fine. Frunk for fridge, tunnel for kitchen. Bed for the rest.
 

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New to the forum here, just put a deposit (investment?) in an R1T. I’m surprised to see there’s no 12V in the bed; that’s a mod I’ve done with my current Tacoma for charging devices as well as running my Dometic CFX35. And FYI, the fridge seems to work just fine in the bed under a black tonneau cover, even in Western US summer temps.
 

Dark-Fx

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Deeply bummed by this. I got my Dometic based on CS frunk depth numbers which apparently reflected the "cargo shelf removed" depth. The bottom is not level without that so it's likely the fridge won't fit in the frunk after all - even if it is tall enough at the shortest point (unclear), it won't be level 🙁

Maybe I can print up some inserts to flatten the bottom, but it's a shame they released a somewhat misleading number early.
I got mine when the initial dimensions were announced because I was expecting it to be shaped more like the concept was, which appears to be a huge flat space in the bottom.
1633620265839.png

But based on motortrend's image of their pre-production, it doesn't look to be nearly as spacious at the bottom.
1633620363507.png
 

kylealden

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I got mine when the initial dimensions were announced because I was expecting it to be shaped more like the concept was, which appears to be a huge flat space in the bottom.
1633620265839.png

But based on motortrend's image of their pre-production, it doesn't look to be nearly as spacious at the bottom.
1633620363507.png
I am at least hopeful that if you were to put some kind of solid block in the bottom rectangle there, you'd have enough vertical space for a decent fridge/cooler with false floor removed. A little unclear on how graduated the width is from this photo though.
 

Dark-Fx

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I am at least hopeful that if you were to put some kind of solid block in the bottom rectangle there, you'd have enough vertical space for a decent fridge/cooler with false floor removed. A little unclear on how graduated the width is from this photo though.
I haven't seen an angle that shows the front side of the frunk, but if we go off the depth of the platform being 14.6" and the platform not being long enough to extend past that 14.6" when flipped up, the space there is skinnier than that. Even dometic's smallest powered coolers seem like they might be too large, except for the CFX3 25, which is tiny.
 
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