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crashmtb

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cohall

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I did consider this but I wasn't sure how much a quality job would run here in the Seattle area. Are we talking sub $1k?
From what I've read, a quality job should be well under $1K. Probably closer to $600 for a top-of-the-line shop that knows what they're doing.

Keep in mind, I'm not speaking from experience here. Just relaying what I've found during my research as I also don't want to pay the black wheel upcharge.
 

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Is there any reason not to just use plasti dip? If its just for aesthetics and protection, even if you need to re-apply every couple years, seems like a simple solution
 
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@DuckTruck were you able to load anything into the truck bed? Did you notice anywhere to step when items are being loaded into the bed?
My understanding from the lucky early testers is that it an easy step from the cloud your floating on right into the bed.
Sorry couldn't resist. I actually think this might require a combination of Kneel mode, the gear tunnel door, the tire, ingenuity, and agility. For some I can foresee this being a legitimate concerns for other not so much. Ill bet this get addressed with updated R1T model years.
 

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It sounds like it should be fine as long as the cure temperatures of the powder coating process gets nowhere close to 300F?
I seems that even most low-temp cure powder coatings are in the 350F range.
 

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Heated ?

yeah, don’t do it, this goes for any heat treated alloy wheel. Too easy to overage an alloy wheel when powdercoating.
If it's done correctly by a knowledgeable shop and cured at the right temp, then it's absolutely safe to do and there is no over-aging or any chemical reaction occurring at all.

If you go to some rando on the corner, who charges $50 per wheel, yeah that's a bad idea.
 

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Is there any reason not to just use plasti dip? If its just for aesthetics and protection, even if you need to re-apply every couple years, seems like a simple solution
Perhaps, but only if it is a "pavement princess". I am not sure how plasti-dip would hold up with some mild off-roading, and even the slightest bit of visible peeling will take that wheel's aesthetics from badass all the way to tacky.
 

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Heated ?

yeah, don’t do it, this goes for any heat treated alloy wheel. Too easy to overage an alloy wheel when powdercoating.

good insight here from the owner of a company that sells alloy wheels for jeep:
https://forum.aev-conversions.com/f...-cause-structural-failure?p=137686#post137686
They now have formulas that cure between 80 and 100 degrees Celsius (176 - 220 Fahrenheit) which should be no problem for forged alloy wheels.

Focus on Low-Temperature Cure Powder Coating Technologies - American Coatings Association (paint.org)

an excerpt;

In September 2020, AkzoNobel expanded its powder coatings offerings with the acquisition of Stahl Performance Powder Coatings, which included its range of products for heat-sensitive substrates.2 The low-temperature curing technologies include both UV and thermally curing powders that cure at ultra-low (80–100 °C) temperatures and are ideally suited for use on MDF, plywood, thermoplastics, and composites.
 

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Is there any reason not to just use plasti dip? If its just for aesthetics and protection, even if you need to re-apply every couple years, seems like a simple solution
I've never seen a plastidip job that didn't look like a plastidip job, if you know what I mean.
 

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crashmtb

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They now have formulas that cure between 80 and 100 degrees Celsius (176 - 220 Fahrenheit) which should be no problem for forged alloy wheels.

Focus on Low-Temperature Cure Powder Coating Technologies - American Coatings Association (paint.org)

an excerpt;

In September 2020, AkzoNobel expanded its powder coatings offerings with the acquisition of Stahl Performance Powder Coatings, which included its range of products for heat-sensitive substrates.2 The low-temperature curing technologies include both UV and thermally curing powders that cure at ultra-low (80–100 °C) temperatures and are ideally suited for use on MDF, plywood, thermoplastics, and composites.
Neat!

I was just reading about UV and IR curing on temperature sensitive materials.
interesting advances.
 

crashmtb

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I've never seen a plastidip job that didn't look like a plastidip job, if you know what I mean.
All it makes me think of is vinyl coated pliers handles
 

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I've never seen a plastidip job that didn't look like a plastidip job, if you know what I mean.
I Plasti dipped the wheels on my car just to figure out what color I really wanted before I paid to powder coat them. It has its place its a temporary easily removably coating but it is rubber so stuff sticks to it and its hard to clean. I have also have done Plasti on badges as it can be easily turned back to stock.
 

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I've only ever done badges, but thought wheels were just as simple. Good to know though, thanks for all the input!
 

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Speaking of which, Duck, did they mention how much it would cost to get an additional set of wheels and tires if a customer goes that route? I'm still grumbling about the fact that the jump from the 20s included in our Launch Editions to the all black 20s is $3,500 (which is the same cost to upgrade from the cheaper 21s). Instead, what I might consider is sticking to the free/included 20s, paying extra for a new set of all-black 20s, and then immediately selling the regular 20s to recoup some of the outlay. The assumption is that my net spend all things considered would be less than $3,500, but I welcome hole-poking in this plan :).
While we discussed the second set option I was thinking about, no pricing was actually mentioned. I think that when they're available for purchase, they'll likely be added to the configurator. My question was asked because I was trying to find which would be the lowest priced option and therefore, allow me to take advantage by including the spendier option on the pre-order.

I'm not sure they're ready to share that pricing, but at $800 for the spare (correct? Busy and no time to open the Configurator), they won't, nor should they be cheap. As to powder-coating those wheels, I'd hate to see that done. From a cost standpoint, it may be the best option, if the safety and other problems with the aluminum mentioned here allow it. Like others here, I've heard a quality job can be had for around $600, but I'm spooked by the safety concerns.

To me, the originals are beautiful and a signature piece of Rivian's style. I know I've used this line here before, but hey, I'm not proud. Powder-coating these reminds me of the guy who came home from the Olympics and was so proud of his gold medal, he had it bronzed.
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