Level 2 adapter suggestions?

[Voronbrg]

I need to get one for my office that will work both for tesla and r1t. Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't mind carrying an adapter for the tesla.

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[Tim-in-CA]

I have a Wallbox unit (available on Amazon) and it works for my Tesla (with the J1772 adapter). I only installed in preparation for my R1S and to get the tax credit for 2021 so it doesn't get use, I only tested. Its rated for outdoor use, so not sure where you plan on installing at work. Its app controllable so you can lock it down if you want and only authorize specific people to use ... never tried that functionality, but see it in the app.


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[stynes]

I've got a JuiceBox that I've had for years. Works well, will charge both with an adapter.

 

[Taco]

Currently have a Tesla Gen 2 unit for my X, going to change out to 2 JuiceBox 48s so I can load share. I would rather get the Wallbox 48 TBH but you have to run a communication wire from one unit to the other unit so that they load share. (ugh now that I've typed that out I question myself why I'm so lazy to not run a simple cat5/2 wire cable... )

Anyway.... yeah I'm going to load share a 60amp circuit so either EV can take advantage of the fastest charge rate if the other is not using it. I'll also pick up a 2nd J1772 Charging Adapter from Tesla for $50 (Sure Amazon might have them cheaper but for a 100k car, $50 is just fine to know it's not some ghetto POS) so that I can always keep on in the car and the other on the wall connector that the X will use.

@Tim-in-CA - What's your hot take on the Wallbox units? Love the size!

 

[Rousie13]

If you want a Tesla to J1772, then the Teslatap Mini is the best option. If you want J1772 to Tesla, then the Tesla branded adapter is the best option.

 

[boredcleaner]

I've got a JuiceBox that I've had for years. Works well, will charge both with an adapter.

I've done this a few times, there are a few ways.

Easiest for non-Tesla folks is get a J1772 EVSE and have the Tesla users use the adapter that comes with the car. I have a few Juiceboxes and they are great. I find them easy to wire and install and have good cable length. The 48A modules are currently out of stock, but for the workplace 30-40A is plenty.

Less known is to buy the Tesla wall charger and get a Tesla-to-J1772 adapter (I have tested this with Lectron - Tesla to J1772 Charging Adapter and it works well [bold is for the amazon search]). We have slightly more Teslas than non-Teslas currently and the Tesla folks are happy about it. One should have a storage location for the adapter, though, to prevent loss.

Things get marginally more complicated if you want to do load sharing. Larger installations may go this route. For corporate-managed facilities, ChargePoint seems to be pretty widespread.

 

[Tim-in-CA]

Currently have a Tesla Gen 2 unit for my X, going to change out to 2 JuiceBox 48s so I can load share. I would rather get the Wallbox 48 TBH but you have to run a communication wire from one unit to the other unit so that they load share. (ugh now that I've typed that out I question myself why I'm so lazy to not run a simple cat5/2 wire cable... )

Anyway.... yeah I'm going to load share a 60amp circuit so either EV can take advantage of the fastest charge rate if the other is not using it. I'll also pick up a 2nd J1772 Charging Adapter from Tesla for $50 (Sure Amazon might have them cheaper but for a 100k car, $50 is just fine to know it's not some ghetto POS) so that I can always keep on in the car and the other on the wall connector that the X will use.

@Tim-in-CA - What's your hot take on the Wallbox units? Love the size!

As I previous stated, I only installed, tested that it worked and haven't used it since. It is VERY small and light and comes with ample cable if you need to get to different charge port locations. The only complaint I have (and others have stated) is that the LED ring on the front of the unit is always on (changes colors depending on charge state) and is pretty bright. Wallbox states that they will have a FW update to allow this to be user controllable. The other feature in the app that is nice is that you can dynamically adjust how many amps you want to output from the app (even while the vehicle is charging). For me, this will be beneficial as I'll want to try to use excess solar generation to charge the vehicle (when I'm home to monitor) vs pushing and pulling via grid. I have about $0.03/kWh charge from SCE when I pull banked solar generation back from the grid, even though it is minimal, I'll be damned if I'll willingly give them an extra penny!!! GRRR. I thought that load balancing was automatic as they units can communicate with each other wirelessly, not sure, I could be wrong ... couldn't find any detailed info on the site. I have separate 50Amp breakers for my two chargers, so not an issue for me.

 

[Taco]

As I previous stated, I only installed, tested that it worked and haven't used it since. It is VERY small and light and comes with ample cable if you need to get to different charge port locations. The only complaint I have (and others have stated) is that the LED ring on the front of the unit is always on (changes colors depending on charge state) and is pretty bright. Wallbox states that they will have a FW update to allow this to be user controllable. The other feature in the app that is nice is that you can dynamically adjust how many amps you want to output from the app (even while the vehicle is charging). For me, this will be beneficial as I'll want to try to use excess solar generation to charge the vehicle (when I'm home to monitor) vs pushing and pulling via grid. I have about $0.03/kWh charge from SCE when I pull banked solar generation back from the grid, even though it is minimal, I'll be damned if I'll willingly give them an extra penny!!! GRRR. I thought that load balancing was automatic as they units can communicate with each other wirelessly, not sure, I could be wrong ... couldn't find any detailed info on the site. I have separate 50Amp breakers for my two chargers, so not an issue for me.

I jumped on the Wallbox site and asked them about this as I had a hell of a time finding the information out and have only been able to find a single video on the setup. Once they get back to me I'll give an update, wireless would be nice.

As much as I'd like to run another 60amp I'm out of space so have to make the most of it, there's a chance I COULD upgrade my subpanel but then we're talking a LOT more money.

 

[Voronbrg]

ordered the wallbox 48amp with adapter for the tesla.

 

[Rousie13]

I jumped on the Wallbox site and asked them about this as I had a hell of a time finding the information out and have only been able to find a single video on the setup. Once they get back to me I'll give an update, wireless would be nice.

As much as I'd like to run another 60amp I'm out of space so have to make the most of it, there's a chance I COULD upgrade my subpanel but then we're talking a LOT more money.

For Wallbox PowerSharing you need to run Cat 5/6 cables between the units. They will not talk to each other wirelessly and must be connected to one another for communication.

 

[DB-EV]

Tom Mulaney (sp?) who is on E for electric alot has a bunch of good reviews including things like cold weather (some chords are not great in cold weather). I would check those. I had a favorite but can't remember now.

Also, some utilities will give you a rebate so you are paying 250 for a 750 charger, and then when you use that charger if you agree to charge in certain periods and share the data, they will give you a good discount (ie 11 pm to 7 am charging). Even if people are commuting long distances, this makes it worth it.

 

[Tim-in-CA]

For Wallbox PowerSharing you need to run Cat 5/6 cables between the units. They will not talk to each other wirelessly and must be connected to one another for communication.

More searching, found a video showing setup .... Looks pretty easy and would work great for someone that is sharing a breaker.

 

[pc500]

Public office? Use a J1772, let others adapt. Get as high of amps as you can possible do; way too many are limits to 6kwh.

 

[EarlyAdptr]

I posted this on another thread - might be helpful to some here

I've been trying to read through all of the information on home charging and deciding how to wire for my impending R1T (sOOn). I've developed this table of info but want to make sure it's accurate - so please, those with more knowledge chime in and I will edit to correct inaccuracies:

Type	Charge Amps	Circuit Amps	Plug Type	Miles / Charge Hr
Riv Portable Chrgr			Reg 120v	~3
Riv Portable Chrgr	32A	40A	NEMA 14-50	~15
Plug-in Charger*	40A	50A	NEMA 14-50	~20
Riv Wall Charger	48A	60A	Hard Wired	Up to 25

* Non-Rivian plug-in Chargers (JuiceBox, ClipperCreek, etc.)

Assuming this is all correct, and given I don't put a lot of miles on my car any day (max ~50), I'm going to wire my house with a NEMA 14-50 plug and start by using the Rivian Portable Charger - the car will be available to charge 8 hours each night - that should be more than enough for my simple (non-trip needs). I can always juice it up over a couple of nights if I know I'm about to go on a trip.

If I find I want a little more umph, I can later buy a plug-in wall charger from a non-Rivian manufacturer. Also, if my wife gets an EV down the road, then I may choose to get a load-sharing 3rd party plug-in charger.

I do still have one question. Just to maximize my electrician's time (and lower my cost), would I be able to have them install a 60 amp circuit and connect that to the NEMA 14-50 plug? Or is the plug rated for a MAX amperage of 50 amps (as it's naming would suggest). My thinking would be if later I (or a new owner of my home if we sell) wanted to install a hard-wired charger, having the 60 amp circuit in place already would be helpful. But maybe that won't work??

Hope that's helpful to others as well!

 

[Autolycus]

@EarlyAdptr A 40A NVSE would get 20 miles of range added per hour, assuming Rivian’s numbers are right for their portable charger and wall charger.

The electrician can install everything for 60A except for the breaker itself (i.e. cabling) That has to be 50A if you’re putting a 14-50 plug on the other end.

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