JEBINC’s Review and Installation of the EV Sportline / 1EV / RMaxx Running Boards – Including Lessons Learned, Tips and Sealing of 4” hole procedure!

[abirozy]

Yes. It supposedly can be applied “under water” to things like pool liners and wet roofs and chimney flashing! Supposedly….

Was reading through the 70+ pages I have been following, since I am contemplating these, have been following since beginning, and wanted to review again.

I am interested in how you like the pass through design of the tread. I am wary of it, and I know you were in the beginning. What changed your mind, and how do you like it now that you have them.

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[jebinc]

Was reading through the 70+ pages I have been following, since I am contemplating these, have been following since beginning, and wanted to review again.

I am interested in how you like the pass through design of the tread. I am wary of it, and I know you were in the beginning. What changed your mind, and how do you like it now that you have them.

Pass thru design of the thread? Do you mean the “triple slot” pattern? If so, you may be recalling @kizamybute' concern with the open pattern. I was all in pushing for that, vs the “Star of David” pattern that I had a visceral reaction to! In my OP above, I also mention custom designing and installing front flaps and @twraps lower door panel PPF. I have zero issue with the “triple slot” tread pattern. Am I misunderstanding your point?

 

[abirozy]

Pass thru design of the thread? Do you mean the “triple slot” pattern? If so, you may be recalling @kizamybute' concern with the open pattern. I was all in pushing for that, vs the “Star of David” pattern that I had a visceral reaction to! In my OP above, I also mention custom designing and installing front flaps and @twraps lower door panel PPF. I have zero issue with the “triple slot” tread pattern. Am I misunderstanding your point?

sorry. I think i was confusing who was posting. It is not so much the slot vs the star as much as the pass through vs solid stamped. Do you for see any issues with mud, sleet, or debris flying through from below vs if the tread was a solid stamped pattern? That is one of my main concerns, although I have very little experience with trucks and running boards so not sure if it is an issue to be worried about.

 

[jebinc]

sorry. I think i was confusing who was posting. It is not so much the slot vs the star as much as the pass through vs solid stamped. Do you for see any issues with mud, sleet, or debris flying through from below vs if the tread was a solid stamped pattern? That is one of my main concerns, although I have very little experience with trucks and running boards so not sure if it is an issue to be worried about.

I believe you are thinking about @kizamybute' concern with that. I don’t have that concern as I’m more than protected with the flaps and PPF. I love the OEM look of the triple slot pattern as it matches the Rivian Stadium headlights. Not a fan of the “Star of David” pattern aesthetics, even if they more limit dirt pass through.

Edit: @abirozy just reread and recall. Yes, I was originally a solid diamond plate proponent! When that was ruled out by 1EV, I chose the look of the triple slot and then designed the flaps and installed them while I waited for the RBs to show up. Sorry for being so slow this Sunday evening.

 

[jebinc]

I believe you are thinking about @kizamybute' concern with that. I don’t have that concern as I’m more than protected with the flaps and PPF. I love the OEM look of the triple slot pattern as it matches the Rivian Stadium headlights. Not a fan of the “Star of David” pattern aesthetics, even if they more limit dirt pass through.

Edit: @abirozy just reread and recall. Yes, I was originally a solid diamond plate proponent! When that was ruled out by 1EV, I chose the look of the triple slot and then designed the flaps and installed them while I waited for the RBs to show up. Sorry for being so slow this Sunday evening.

@abirozy P.S. Keep in mind, no running boards will expose your doors to much more debris than boards with an open pattern.

 

[abirozy]

@abirozy P.S. Keep in mind, no running boards will expose your doors to much more debris than boards with an open pattern.

very very true.... BTW... I do appreciate your posts. They are always very informative.

 

[EV Sportline]

tl;dr - They are STURDY and well-constructed! I took a “non-plug” easier and much less time-consuming approach to sealing the 4” holes! Any and all questions are welcomed!

__________

Hello my fellow, “Riviarians”! While it’s been a long time coming (Ordered on 11/14/22), I’m pleased to report that @EV Sportline was right, that “it’s worth the wait”! I’ve attached photos (at the end) for the points I make in this write-up.

A “while waiting - Lesson Learned” for me is that it’s best to ask questions/make suggestions via DM/PM - or better yet, directly with EV Sportline’s Customer Service (“CS”) team. I have found communications with CS to be very responsive and transparent, especially when it comes to production and order delivery status. So, I would suggest you direct things like that to CS, vs. the various forum threads.

Here are two links to other informative threads on this. The first is my “Master Thread…” for all member Running Board (“RB”) reviews, which this review will be linked to. The second in the @EV Sportline “many page” long product thread for their Running Boards and Sliders.

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...x-running-boards-sliders-from-team-1ev.11589/

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...iders-for-rivian-r1t-r1s-from-team-1ev.10034/

Suggestion: First scan the “JEBINC “Lessons Learned” and Installation Tips:” section below, prior to proceeding.

Okay, now on with the actual JEBINC review!

1) Surprisingly, FedEx actually delivered the package “on time” (a rarity for them); and boy is that box heavy – a early sign that the product within is of the highest quality!

2) I felt like a kid during the winter holiday’s when doing the unboxing! The product was well packed to ensure the delivery process did not damage them! All of the needed parts, hardware and correct bits were provided, as promised – I think @EV Sportline is the only provider that “goes the extra mile” to provide customers with the needed odd Torx bits. Nice touch!

3) I went with the more open “Triple Slot” tread design, as I preferred the “Rivian Stadium” look over the original 1EV logo/box design (personal preference, of course). I designed and installed custom flaps for the front of the truck, so I’m not overly concerned about stuff flying through the ovals. I also self-PPF’d the lower portions of the doors, below the bend, thanks to Iliya at @twraps!

4) After unpacking, I installed the plates on the Running Board (“RB”) frames and headed out to the garage!

5) See my recommendation at the end of this step (5), if not wanting to try the rubber plug/grommet solution…. Because I’m anal, and want to ensure the drilled holes are exactly where I want them in the panels (to ensure I can get the plugs to fit w/o bracket interference at the margins), I removed the 10mm (6 total) and T20 bolts (4 total) and dropped just the inside edge of the panels (didn’t mess with those clips at all). Note 1: Mine also had some adhesive to break free as well (center and rear panels). Using an extra-long 90 degree “hook” tool – I aligned the point directly below the TP55 indentation and pushed up on the panels to make an impression (raised bump) on the outside of the panel. Now I know exactly where the bolt is relative to the panel. Note 2: As @EV Sportline told us, there is a lot of panel installation variability, so for those of you wanting to use plugs, you may want to do something similar, vs. using the templates provided with the product. Those work fine for people okay with leaving the holes open, of course, but may not be precise enough for plug installation. Note 3: Having the inside panels dropped also allows you to slide in a ~4” x ¾” plank (Optional, of course. I had my own hole saws so this worked best for me) for an improved panel drilling experience (i.e., drilling stability and frame protection). Note 4: Center of drill hole is off-set from center of TP55 bolt location.

JEBINC Recommendation – Skip this approach if you do not want to add Velcro (see below), or fiddle with plug fitting, and go with the @EV Sportline templates and “no panel removal” instructions! Sealing solution below…


6) Next…

- Since I already had dropped the inner edge of the panels for experimentation and hole cutting, I installed ¾” w Marine grade Velcro (after cleaning well with 91% isopropyl alcohol) to the center and front panel inner edges. I found, center panel in particular, the plastic clips weak and panel rattle prone! For the rear, I went with 3M double sided tape, but Velcro works as well; maybe even better/more reliably.
- Reinstall the panels (if you decided to drop them for Velcro installation or precise hole locating).
- Snuggly (but not tightly) reinstall the frame brackets and running boards (Note 5: Since this is a temporary install, for alignment only, I only used ½ of the mounting bolts – one per bracket) to set the alignment. Tighten these enough so they properly orient the frame brackets - and then tightened down the frame brackets in that position. Remove the RB’s and torque the frame brackets to the frame, per Rivian spec. Note 6: I’m wondering if Loctite should be used, as it seems like some thread compound was on these bolts... Hmmm…

7) And now the plot twist (drum roll)… – I decided not to use thermoplastic plugs, or rubber grommets, as my experimentation with the Thermoplastic plugs was time consuming and results were “hit and miss,” depending on each bracket and hole. Yes, those bulges are a real PITA and protrude from the holes more in some locations than others. What did I go with, you ask? “Gorilla Waterproof Patch and Seal,” of course! It was a quick and easy job!

- I cut two 5 ½” radius pieces (out of the 4" wide product), using a X-acto knife and a small saucer as a guide. Extra diameter/material is needed for the bulge - to ensure at least ½” seal around the edge of the holes.
- Clean well, with 91% isopropyl alcohol, the area around each hole and frame bracket – to ensure good adhesion to plastic panel and metal frame brackets. Note 7: Since I already had the RB’s mounted, I installed the “seals” without having to remove RB’s! I also used my heat gun to warm the seal location prior to installing the seal.
- The first half went on the back side of the frame bracket with a flap being affixed to the rear-facing side of the bracket (for sealing purposes), and the balance sealing around the outside perimeter of the 4" hole. Note 8: Ensure there is no seal material in the RB mounting interface area (the “slide zone”)!
- Next, I repeated this for the front side of the frame bracket and overlap the top and bottom of the backside piece already installed. Note 9: I did cover the front-facing panhead side of the bolts with seal to protect from debris chipping and subsequent corrosion.
- Note 10: Yes, yes, I know…. equivalent seal can be found in wider than 4" sizes, but I wanted to test this sealing approach ASAP; and my plan was always to "split and overlap" the seal, and to create bracket sealing tabs, so I went with this product (see link below). Again, I was searching for a "commercially viable," quick, easy and secure seal solution for those with existing 4" holes, and for those that plan to do 4" hole method themselves.

Link to product I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HSKRYQW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

8) Permanently install the RB’s, to the mounting brackets, as instructed by @EV Sportline.

9) Step back and take a moment to enjoy your great installation job, and the EV Sportline RB’s.

10) Test them out and go for a drive – Note 11: Take a passenger or two, so they can enjoy the experience as well!!



JEBINC “Lessons Learned” and Installation Tips:


1) Because the frame brackets take up nearly the entire 4” hole (top and bottom, but not sides), and hole location (relative to the TP55 bolts) will vary for many reasons… If you “attempt” the rubber plug method, your 4” drill hole will need to be located “precisely,” otherwise the top side of the bracket, and/or “bulge” WILL NOT allow for the plugs to be installed, due to interference/proximity to the hole edge! For this reason, I abandoned all (thermoplastic and rubber) plug solutions, as those solutions would likely not work on all eight holes for those who drilled holes per the “template” provided, or for those that had @EV Sportline install the boards at one of their locations (this is due to panel installation location variability, and drill bit orientation when drilling the holes). One misaligned hole (in eight), and you are screwed! We needed a quick, easy, durable and “commercially viable” solution for all customers going with 4” holes, given the known variability and frame bracket challenges.

2) I’m going to experiment with some 3/32”, 1/8” and 3/16” rubber/Vinyl bead fender welting - between the tread plate and frame. More to come on this potential JEBINC mod…

3) One person can install the boards. Just sit on the ground (between the 2nd and 3rd bracket from the front) and rest the RB just above your knees. Using your legs as a jack, raise your knees to hold the RB in place - whilst you insert some bolts and nuts!

4) I used a heat gun (or you can use a hair dryer) to warm the panels just prior installing the Gorilla Patch & Seal to each hole – and then again after installation. Give the warmed margins of the seal a good rub/press! This ensures great adhesion, and a “problem-free” installation.

5) After drilling each hole, scrape away, or otherwise remove, all loose drilling debris/shavings. This will ensure a smooth surface and will avoid unsightly “lumps” under the seal. I used a utility knife and some 100-grit sand paper for the inner edges.

6) I used my pneumatic impact wrench; that made easy work of removing TP55 bolts. I also tested an 18” breaker bar; that also worked well, if an impact wrench isn’t readily available.

7) Since I dropped the inner edge of my panels, as mentioned above, I installed the marine-grade Velcro – to further limit water/dirt intrusion, and to silence those damn loose rattle-prone center panels!

8) Wash the underside of your truck, and let dry out in the garage a few days (only if you plan to drop the panels for a plug “attempt” or to install Velcro), prior to starting. Your eyes will be very thankful.

9) Be careful not to scuff, scratch or chip the powder-coat paint on your RB’s when installing the plates or installing the assembled RB to your truck. I used several mover’s blankets ($9 ea. at Harbor Freight), to ensure this didn’t happen.

10) Pushed in, the RB’s look best, IMHO (YMMV) – and there is less mechanical leverage on the brackets and frame.

11) Enjoy the journey; it has been a long time in the making!

Nice work JEBINC! Amazing detail and sharing, I am sure this will help a lot of customers

Thanks again for putting the time and effort in, and for patiently waiting for the goods!

 

[jebinc]

Nice work JEBINC! Amazing detail and sharing, I am sure this will help a lot of customers

Thanks again for putting the time and effort in, and for patiently waiting for the goods!

“Patiently waiting,” @EV Sportline?! I think you have the wrong guy!

More seriously, thank you for listening and considering member input during the prototyping phase. By incorporating some of that input, such as adding the “triple slot” pattern as an option, I think doing so will go a long way to making the product appeal to more people.

 

[jebinc]

@EV Sportline @BrookeRRiv

Just a thought… if it turns out that more people, than not, like the two-piece split seal approach to sealing the “hole area” (pun intended ), consider producing either a two-piece pattern template (to go with/align with your plastic panel hole locating template) for cutting the 3/4-semi circle seal halves with frame bracket sealing tabs, or offering a seal kit of 16 pre-cut pieces?

Using a two-piece seal design allows/creates nice frame bracket sealing tabs and a thicker, “over the open unsupported hole” plate of material for added durability that neither a one-piece slitted/slotted seal (or rubber plug) can offer. A two-piece design also allows those with holes and boards already installed to have an upgrade sealing retrofit path as the boards would have have to be removed to add them (as I did, installed the seals the day after installing the boards).

Note: Most of the 5-10 minutes per hole was spent locating, cutting and trimming the tabs, so a template will make this easy job even quicker and easier. I was going to create a template for all, but stopped short of doing so as it reminded me too much of “work,” I digress …

Again, just a thought.

What do others think?

Edit: Members, please cast your vote in the thread poll as well!

 

[jebinc]

March 13th Update:

I've added (1a) this "Tip" to my OP, in blue...

1a) For those newly installing the running boards, install your seal halves after torquing down your frame brackets, but before mounting the RB's to said frame brackets - super easy! For those with RB's already installed, the two-piece seals can be added WITHOUT having to remove the RB's - This is how I did mine as I added the seals, "the day after" installation of the RB's!

 

[jebinc]

@EV Sportline @BrookeRRiv

Just a thought… if it turns out that more people, than not, like the two-piece split seal approach to sealing the “hole area” (pun intended ), consider producing either a two-piece pattern template (to go with/align with your plastic panel hole locating template) for cutting the 3/4-semi circle seal halves with frame bracket sealing tabs, or offering a seal kit of 16 pre-cut pieces?

Using a two-piece seal design allows/creates nice frame bracket sealing tabs and a thicker, “over the open unsupported hole” plate of material for added durability that neither a one-piece slitted/slotted seal (or rubber plug) can offer. A two-piece design also allows those with holes and boards already installed to have an upgrade sealing retrofit path as the boards would have have to be removed to add them (as I did, installed the seals the day after installing the boards).

Note: Most of the 5-10 minutes per hole was spent locating, cutting and trimming the tabs, so a template will make this easy job even quicker and easier. I was going to create a template for all, but stopped short of doing so as it reminded me too much of “work,” I digress …

Again, just a thought.

What do others think?

Edit: Members, please cast your vote in the thread poll as well!

P.S. If @EV Sportline later determines not to produce a template or seal kit, perhaps someone like Iliya @twraps can produce and sell the aforementioned two-piece seal kit - as they are the masters of PPF, vinyl and other flexible "wraps"?! Maybe even in partnership, since @EV Sportline has all of the CAD geometry - panels, holes and frame brackets? Again, just thinking out loud here!
@uthatch
@PappaBolt
@kizamybute'

 

[mabowden]

In a couple weeks I'd like to know if you notice any changes in range by adding these. One of my only hangups...

 

[jebinc]

Well, it's been raining like a, "SpaceX launch pad water deluge system," here in Seattle - so I thought what a good day to do some environmental seal stress testing - including driving on a road that is under construction! Note: When I first got the truck, the noisy center panels caused me to apply some black duct tape to them and the frame. After the first rainy drive, the duck tape either peeled off completely, or was hanging down partially - clearly not a good solution. This seal, as mentioned, is waterproof and used on roofs and underwater to seal pool liners.

Punch line - All is as it should be! "Nothing to see here..."

 

[Phatman113]

Well, it's been raining like a, "SpaceX launch pad water deluge system," here in Seattle

As a fellow Seattleite, I feel your rain...

 

[jebinc]

As a fellow Seattleite, I feel your rain...

And what a real rain in the @$$ it is this morning!

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