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Is there no default amperage setting?

wrightwood

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Forgive me if this has been covered in another thread, but my truck keeps going back to 48 amps on the charge setting screen. I have a 40a EVSE on a 40a breaker, so I change the setting to 36a before I plug in. Is there any way to get the truck to keep the last setting? Our Polestar just sticks to the last used amperage setting.
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VSG

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Why do you change the amperage? The truck communicates with the EVSE and negotiates the rate. Your 40A EVSE shouldn't be configured to provide more than 32A if it's on a 40A breaker. Regardless, this is all automatic.
 

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Agreed - You shouldn't ever need to adjust the amperage on the vehicle. The charger tells the vehicle how much power it can draw. If your vehicle is trying to pull more than 32A, then the charger must be telling it that the circuit is bigger than it really is.

The solution is to fix the charger so that it knows to tell the vehicle to not pull more than 32A.

You don't say what model your charger is, but there should be a setting on it someplace to tell it what the circuit is rated for.
 

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Comments are correct the level 2 wall connector ( many call it a charger but the charger is built into the vehicle on level 2 charger systems) has either a dip switch for the older models or is set for max amperage via WiFi. The wall connector must always be set so it allows for the circuit breaker size. Max charge rate of 32 amps with a 40 amp breaker, 40 amps max charge rate on a 50 amp breaker and 48 max charge amps on a 60 amp breaker. When the wall connector is correctly set for max amps the vehicle can only pull up to that wall connector max amperage setting.
 

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It would be nice if the Rivian remembered it's last session setting or saved a user default L2 setting because it's "possible" that a software setting current limit on your L2 EVSE could be wiped out by a glitch, sw update, brain fart, etc.. which could lead to an over current situation on de-rated EVSE installs.
Of course, on older EVSE's that set current limits via physical DIP Switches vs. software settings this could not (in theory) ever happen.
 

SparkyR1t

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Wall connector should never lose its initial amperage settings as that will create a fire hazard in the home. Once set the wall connector should retain the initial data or default to the lowest amperage possible if there is a problem. Cannot exceed the circuit breaker capacity which also needs to allow for the 20% amperage cushion due to heating that occurs with long term charging
 
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wrightwood

wrightwood

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Thanks y'all. Discovered that the dip switches were set incorrectly to 40a on the Grizzl-E charger. Once I set them to 32a, all is well. Interestingly, the truck amperage setting now shows 34a, whereas before it would show 44a. Not sure how to explain the discrepancy.
 

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it's "possible" that a software setting current limit on your L2 EVSE could be wiped out by a glitch, sw update, brain fart, etc.
I'm pretty sure the NEC has language to ensure the EVSE remains safe if using a software-only current setting that might get corrupted. A physical switch will be much safer because it is set on install and is protected from being changed. The whole point of electrical code is to minimize hazards by taking into account everything that is "possible".
 

ye3hawp0ny

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Thanks y'all. Discovered that the dip switches were set incorrectly to 40a on the Grizzl-E charger. Once I set them to 32a, all is well. Interestingly, the truck amperage setting now shows 34a, whereas before it would show 44a. Not sure how to explain the discrepancy.
I have the same charger and too shows 34amps initially. I just manually turn it down to 32 on the screen
 

VSG

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Interestingly, the truck amperage setting now shows 34a, whereas before it would show 44a. Not sure how to explain the discrepancy.
For some reason it always displays 2 amps more for everyone. I'm not sure why, but what you're seeing is "normal" for a Rivian. I've learned to accept it for what it is.
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