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Installed frunk wired solar-capable 12v battery tender to reduce vampire drain

Ervan

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Inspired by @shrink et al's amazing detective work and follow on efforts and forum posts on vampire drain, battery tenders, etc., I decided to install a wiring setup to enable solar capable 12v charging for camping, Sierra trips, and the like in my Gen1 R1T.

I was experiencing pretty gnarly vampire drain (up to 7-8mi per day on range) and we camp and go to Sierras a lot, so was eager to improve this based on all the information in the forums.

The setup and process:

Removed frunk tub via the 6 bolts.
Rivian R1T R1S Installed frunk wired solar-capable 12v battery tender to reduce vampire drain IMG_4085


Attached battery wiring to terminals for both 12v batteries to frunk (with overload fuse), later wrapped in nylon protective sheath and nicely tucked away:
Rivian R1T R1S Installed frunk wired solar-capable 12v battery tender to reduce vampire drain IMG_4212


These wires ran to about where the frunk wiring harness connects for the powered lighting. Then, connected to frunk via powerpole wiring harness which was zip tied to existing frunk wiring harness and through driver side light gromet and the space for that.
Rivian R1T R1S Installed frunk wired solar-capable 12v battery tender to reduce vampire drain IMG_4216
Rivian R1T R1S Installed frunk wired solar-capable 12v battery tender to reduce vampire drain IMG_4215


Also wired dual USB-C cables from frunk panel cover terminated into a weather proof connector for solar input and in same harness as powerpole so frunk can be removed easily
Rivian R1T R1S Installed frunk wired solar-capable 12v battery tender to reduce vampire drain IMG_4294


In frunk, I installed a Powerwerx anderson powerpole connector plug (2 sockets) and dual USB-C from the wiring harness (for solar in) and eventually a 12v input from battery to charge stuff while driving. I thought about an SAE style plug since more readily available but couldn't find a dual socket one.
Rivian R1T R1S Installed frunk wired solar-capable 12v battery tender to reduce vampire drain IMG_4298


Solar panels on roof (portable) will charge an Anker Solix C300 via the USB-Cs. The Anker will power two USB-C battery tenders and hopefully keep both 12v batteries nice and topped off during day and overnight.
Rivian R1T R1S Installed frunk wired solar-capable 12v battery tender to reduce vampire drain IMG_4303
Rivian R1T R1S Installed frunk wired solar-capable 12v battery tender to reduce vampire drain IMG_4300


Was a fun and pretty easy project overall, but couldn't have done it without this forums help! Thank y'all for all the inspiration, technical posts, and awesome community.

Parts list:
  1. 2 x SAE to powerpole (to connect battery tender to powerpole sockets)
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZZ935MR
  2. 2 x powerpole to battery terminal (with inline fuse)
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CFPKLSRC
  3. 2 x powerpole to powerpole wires to go from in-frunk socket to frunk wiring harness connection point (so can remove frunk in future by disconnecting at this point vs. battery)
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4SD64QH
  4. Waterproof USB-C connectors for solar input
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DQPFJ399
  5. Powerwerx powerpole panel mount plug / socket for in frunk plug
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097QDKJJ2
  6. Dual USB-C panel mount socket for in frunk plug
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SRPK349
  7. Panel mount two hole socket cover for nice clean in frunk look
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C862ZGD5
  8. 2 x USB-C powered battery tender
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCVX6LYZ
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Zoidz

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Nice install. I LOVE Powerpoles for this type of work. I’ve used them for years on my farm equipment.
 

Kurt44

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Nice work!
Thank you for Sharing.
Can someone with common sense but no real electrical experience do this type of change? Seems so, I have been following all the posts on this.
Also, does this type of change/modification invalidate the warrantee in anyway?


Thank you again!
 

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Very nice setup and post. I don't camp so vapire drain is less of a concern for me, but I do live in fear of a 12V failure. I would consider using your type of set up as built in jumper cables for a backup 12v kept in the frunk if mine failed on a trip.

Thanks for such a nice post.
 

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Does your solar plug into the power poles to charge/maintain the batteries?
 

Nixapatfan

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Also, does this type of change/modification invalidate the warrantee in anyway?
Only if you leave all this hooked up and take it in for service for electrical issues. It would be wise to remove all this prior to service visits. Yes someone will bring up magnuson moss act but good luck trying to prove your case.
 
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Ervan

Ervan

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Thank y'all!

Nice install. I LOVE Powerpoles for this type of work. I’ve used them for years on my farm equipment.
Thanks - I had never seen these until this project, but yeah they're great! And seems like as portable solar / RV stuff is developing, more things are using the connector. Very versatile.

Does your solar plug into the power poles to charge/maintain the batteries?
It can - but I'm planning on mostly having solar top off the Anker battery so it can also keep batteries tended overnight.

Can someone with common sense but no real electrical experience do this type of change? Seems so, I have been following all the posts on this.
I think as long as you are DIY handy and watch / read up on wiring basics. There was no crimping, soldering, or anything like that here, but you do want to pay close attention to the details and safety considerations.

It would be wise to remove all this prior to service visits.
Yeah, I was torn on this, but right now, all that will be there is two battery leads if I take the battery tender and Anker out of the frunk. That would be a hard case to say this caused anything except maybe if the 12v batteries fail. But yes, it's a risk.
 

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Love this! ?
 

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It can - but I'm planning on mostly having solar top off the Anker battery so it can also keep batteries tended overnight.
It took me a minute to fully comprehend as I honestly skimmed through your post. But your solution is a clean and ingenious one.

You utilize the Anker to keep the 12V battery on a 'trickle charge' and solar is to charge your Anker.

What size is your Anker unit? Does the Anker unit need to be 'vented' when plugged in? If so, is the frunk considered 'vented'?
 

ndmiller

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I thought about installing some Optima pigtails and plug in my optima charger to a solar battery.
 

CarGuyCarl

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This is a really nice clean install. Sad you have to do it, but cool nonetheless.
 

CrazyOne

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Why did you not tap into the jump leads near the hitch receiver? Is it harder? Or does your approach have an advantage over tapping into jump leads?
 
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Ervan

Ervan

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What size is your Anker unit? Does the Anker unit need to be 'vented' when plugged in? If so, is the frunk considered 'vented'?
It's the Solix C300, which is 288Wh capacity. It does have big cooling vents on each side but seems to be passive cooling and didn't seem to get too hot. I'll keep testing though. Also, the Solix has some mixed reviews, so will see how it goes. I bought in part to power some high output USB-C devices I have, not necessarily just for this.

Why did you not tap into the jump leads near the hitch receiver? Is it harder? Or does your approach have an advantage over tapping into jump leads?
My understanding (perhaps wrong) was that the jump leads do not reliably trickle charge both 12v batteries in Gen1, two battery setups. Also, I wanted a place I could lock my power station in and have no chance it's stolen or unplugged. Next I was going to see if any way to run my usb cables to cab out of sight so could leave at like an airport or something all locked up. Lastly, I wanted a setup where eventually I can charge USB devices in the frunk via solar when it's locked.
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