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Leonbmx

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The 'sliders' I had bolted to the frame exactly the same way (from the frame bracket into the body).

The only reason I got rid of them was because I added a body lift which created a ~1 in gap between the 'slider' and the body, creating way too much flex/leverage at the bolt because it no longer rested along the body.

But again, so much weight leveraged like that at the bolt head could create problems if you were seriously using these as a slider. Find some titanium bolts and you'd be alright!
I agree, while the sliders themselves look really good, the first thing I saw when looking at the mounting locations was that it has a single row of fasteners, so no way to counteract leverage, other than the bolt heads. (or the doors, once the slider bends upward enough to make that a counteract point)

Now the bolt heads are larger than standard bolt heads, but if those fasteners were not designed to take the shear loads from the moment of a prying slider, they would fail real quick. And my guess is that those are designed as tension fasteners.

Oh, and definitely do NOT get Titanium bolts, they would be weaker than the OEM bolts.

With all of that said, it is good to see more options pop up! Maybe this will get rid of some of the "rivian tax" that seems to be on a lot of the aftermarket parts.
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Obviously the titanium bolt comment was meant as a joke. I might be convinced with thorough testing that these would work as rock sliders, I just wouldn't want to be the guinea pig.
 

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Obviously the titanium bolt comment was meant as a joke...
You won't be on the late night shows anytime soon. 😄
 
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I agree, while the sliders themselves look really good, the first thing I saw when looking at the mounting locations was that it has a single row of fasteners, so no way to counteract leverage, other than the bolt heads. (or the doors, once the slider bends upward enough to make that a counteract point)

Now the bolt heads are larger than standard bolt heads, but if those fasteners were not designed to take the shear loads from the moment of a prying slider, they would fail real quick. And my guess is that those are designed as tension fasteners.

Oh, and definitely do NOT get Titanium bolts, they would be weaker than the OEM bolts.

With all of that said, it is good to see more options pop up! Maybe this will get rid of some of the "rivian tax" that seems to be on a lot of the aftermarket parts.
Hardware is going to be replaced as already stated. Replacements will be part of the orders. Should be 10.9 grade hardware, the current fasteners don't have a stamping on them but I haven't managed to make them budge after banging the sliders on some rocks a few times.
 
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I personally don’t need 100% bombproof sliders that allow you to drop the truck on them from 2’. Sliders for super ultra hardcore off-roading seems like a niche product, that seems already served by DCE.
 

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I personally don’t need 100% bombproof sliders that allow you to drop the truck on them from 2’. Sliders for super ultra hardcore off-roading seems like a niche product, that seems already served by DCE.
Obviously my personal opinion here, but I'm not a big fan of the way DCE is using the battery bolts. The heads are still pretty much unprotected but now protrude even farther down than they did just holding the battery up. Like anything else though, it's still just going to depend on what you're hitting and the position of it under the vehicle. If you can keep the bulk of the slide happening on the sliders, it's probably not a big deal in the exact position of the sliders.
 
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Some slushy stuff this morning. Slider didn't inhibit opening the door at all. If it was left to freeze, there's potentially an issue but I think the amount of days I'd have to worry about that would be rare.

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We had a good amount of freezing rain overnight and I ended up driving to work with the charge port open. Seemed to stay clean, but I intend on spraying it out with some contact cleaner before using it again.

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Had some time to do some more testing today. There's a little deflection when the weight of the truck is on the sliders but it seems like it's springing back. Still using the OEM hardware so it's hard to say if that's the cause here or not.
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Also getting a video going over a rock here.
 
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Here's the video sliding on the rocks. I'm still new to this so feel free to critique my driving.



Bottom of the slider afterwards. Normally the sliders will be double powdercoated but they just rattle canned mine to get it ready faster.

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There's a little deflection when the weight of the truck is on the sliders but it seems like it's springing back.
Am I correct in assuming the driver side doors probably wouldn't open in this situation?
 
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Am I correct in assuming the driver side doors probably wouldn't open in this situation?
It opens just fine here, but I didn't take a photo. There's normally about 7/8-3/4 of an inch of clearance at the edge of the door with the top plate on and lifted up it's still above 1/2" of clearance.

If I get a chance tonight I'll repeat this with my floor jack and take a photo
 

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They look good, but more running board than slider, IMHO.
 

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Here's the video sliding on the rocks. I'm still new to this so feel free to critique my driving.



Bottom of the slider afterwards. Normally the sliders will be double powdercoated but they just rattle canned mine to get it ready faster.

1676989958923.png
That's what a slider is for! You would have a pile of plastic if you would have done that without it very cool.

Also am I the only one that likes this look bare bars with no top plate that's how all my other off-road rigs have been then you didn't have to worry about mud or snow build up.
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That's what a slider is for! You would have a pile of plastic if you would have done that without it very cool.

Also am I the only one that likes this look bare bars with no top plate that's how all my other off-road rigs have been then you didn't have to worry about mud or snow build up.
1677010570995.png
I thought they were going to give me the bare metal ones but I think they wanted to test everything out. They did tell me today that if people were interested in actually buying their rails to reach out to them on their website. I'm sure they'd be open to providing the bars without the top plate.
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