Si.LE.R1S
Well-Known Member
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Problem: R1S hitch mount spare tire carrier (see this thread) requires license plate relocation. Some states have lighting requirements for relocated plates.
Solution: Use selective adapter to pull tail light power from trailer hookup.
Benefits: Using just the tail light power does not trigger “towing accessory” warning/dialogue. It will also NOT engage trailer detection, so you can maintain benefits of other driving features such as Driver+, adaptive cruise, etc. Light turns on and off with rear running lights. However, I decided to add a switch to have a manual override in case there were times when I didn’t want the bright light on (and it IS bright).
Parts list (and links):
7-pin to 4- or 5- pin adapter
4-pin to bare wire harness
license plate LED
waterproof switch
1/2” PVC coupling
Worm clamps
small wire nuts (just example, I just had these lying around from a previous ceiling fan install)
Scrap foam padding
This is a post on eTrailer that got me started down this path. eTrailer license plate post
Trailer adapter pin out:
Harness pin out (brown is tail lights, white is ground; yellow and green not used)
Here’s the details on the toggle switch connections:
Here is the initial test connection to show wiring:
Once the system was connected and tested, the connections were taken down and reassembled inside the PVC housing:
PVC housing and foam scrap to plug the
Switch fits perfectly into 1/2” open PVC coupler. The coupler comes with a rubber gasket to improve the seal!
PVC couple tightened around switch. Tighten so that switch protrudes enough to toggle easily.
Final wiring assembly. Make sure that red load wire (pin 1 with my finger pointing to it) is connected to red LED light wire (very small red wire is superimposed over thicker wire in this photo):
Added wire nuts to isolate
used green and yellow wire to prevent contact:
Completed housing:
Scrap piece of foam to occlude cord end of housing (probably needs some caulk or other sealant):
Use worm clamps to attach to attach to swing out crossbar (or wood block in my case)
Final Product:
Solution: Use selective adapter to pull tail light power from trailer hookup.
Benefits: Using just the tail light power does not trigger “towing accessory” warning/dialogue. It will also NOT engage trailer detection, so you can maintain benefits of other driving features such as Driver+, adaptive cruise, etc. Light turns on and off with rear running lights. However, I decided to add a switch to have a manual override in case there were times when I didn’t want the bright light on (and it IS bright).
Parts list (and links):
7-pin to 4- or 5- pin adapter
4-pin to bare wire harness
license plate LED
waterproof switch
1/2” PVC coupling
Worm clamps
small wire nuts (just example, I just had these lying around from a previous ceiling fan install)
Scrap foam padding
This is a post on eTrailer that got me started down this path. eTrailer license plate post
Trailer adapter pin out:
Harness pin out (brown is tail lights, white is ground; yellow and green not used)
Here’s the details on the toggle switch connections:
Here is the initial test connection to show wiring:
Once the system was connected and tested, the connections were taken down and reassembled inside the PVC housing:
PVC housing and foam scrap to plug the
Switch fits perfectly into 1/2” open PVC coupler. The coupler comes with a rubber gasket to improve the seal!
PVC couple tightened around switch. Tighten so that switch protrudes enough to toggle easily.
Final wiring assembly. Make sure that red load wire (pin 1 with my finger pointing to it) is connected to red LED light wire (very small red wire is superimposed over thicker wire in this photo):
Added wire nuts to isolate
used green and yellow wire to prevent contact:
Completed housing:
Scrap piece of foam to occlude cord end of housing (probably needs some caulk or other sealant):
Use worm clamps to attach to attach to swing out crossbar (or wood block in my case)
Final Product:
Sponsored
Last edited:
