Costco Tire Change - EXCELLENT Attention to detail!

[Mark_AZR1T]

Any chance someone can tell me the width of the bottom of the Mark Jack Pucks.
They sell the rubber bottoms separately for 18 $. I’d like to not throw mine in a land fill & spend a 100 for a whole new set.
Thanks in advance!

Glad to hear your pucks have seen some action! How about upgrading to a gently driven (still stunning) set of our magnetic jack pucks for just $75, shipped anywhere in the lower 50?

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EVA foam case for top-tier organization
Grip-tech sticky rubber caps for ultimate hold
Four pucks packed with the strongest, high-temp rare earth magnets on the market

Shoot me a DM—we’d love to get a set in your hands!

Mark
p.s. turn up the sound and listen to Rivian puck attachment nirvana

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[Dbl-J]

Not telling you what to do.

Your idea to maintain your (already owned) thing out of a landfill is admirable.

However.

That nipple looks boogered.
And that's a concern.

Best case, it's some type of chromate coating getting gnashed and it's superficial.

But I'm verily worried about this off-brand (likely sourced somewhere in Asia...) integrity.
We have no idea what alloy this is made out of, what thickness it is, or if it's been fully evaluated for integrity (lifting a vehicle a few times is not equivalent to FEA/durability testing over time--ideally for 1000s of cycles).

This product does not instill confidence.

If I were you, I'd buy a premium piece of mind for your $100k+ vehicle.

Just my .02.

You're an adult and can make up your own mind.

But a good set of jack pucks--there's no reason for that extrusion to look beaten up... AT ALL. The fact that it DOES appear that way could suggest there's some kind of cast or formed part underneath. Ideally, it should be milled from an extruded forged billet. I would be concerned about this part not entirely fitting at some point in the future, which could easily lead to destroying the integrity of the perimeter of the hole its intended to conformally fit to under your vehicle [also making it then risky to use even the CORRECT parts at that point]. If this becomes askew, it's going to put a LOT of shear stress across a very small diameter. Best case, it slips into compliance. Worst case, it literally shears this part and your vehicle falls from whatever it's being supported by.

Not to be alarmist, but you should be informed. It's verily possible you ignore me and nothing bad ever happens.

Sir, the picture you show is not mine.
you give a long explanation to a simple question

Not telling you what to do.

Your idea to maintain your (already owned) thing out of a landfill is admirable.

However.

That nipple looks boogered.
And that's a concern.

Best case, it's some type of chromate coating getting gnashed and it's superficial.

But I'm verily worried about this off-brand (likely sourced somewhere in Asia...) integrity.
We have no idea what alloy this is made out of, what thickness it is, or if it's been fully evaluated for integrity (lifting a vehicle a few times is not equivalent to FEA/durability testing over time--ideally for 1000s of cycles).

This product does not instill confidence.

If I were you, I'd buy a premium piece of mind for your $100k+ vehicle.

Just my .02.

You're an adult and can make up your own mind.

But a good set of jack pucks--there's no reason for that extrusion to look beaten up... AT ALL. The fact that it DOES appear that way could suggest there's some kind of cast or formed part underneath. Ideally, it should be milled from an extruded forged billet. I would be concerned about this part not entirely fitting at some point in the future, which could easily lead to destroying the integrity of the perimeter of the hole its intended to conformally fit to under your vehicle [also making it then risky to use even the CORRECT parts at that point]. If this becomes askew, it's going to put a LOT of shear stress across a very small diameter. Best case, it slips into compliance. Worst case, it literally shears this part and your vehicle falls from whatever it's being supported by.

Not to be alarmist, but you should be informed. It's verily possible you ignore me and nothing bad ever happens.

thanks for pointing that out. It could be just a reflection. I’ll take a closer look.

 

[captainjp]

The thing that caught my attention in your photos is the groove worn into your rotor. Did you address this?

 

[Eeyore]

.

What the doing with the bent-screwdriver looking tool?

 

[captainjp]

What the doing with the bent-screwdriver looking tool?

That’s a wire brush and he’s removing scale/rust from the rotor hub

 

[Eeyore]

That’s a wire brush and he’s removing scale/rust from the rotor hub

OK, now I see it. Can't believe I missed that.

 

[Dbl-J]

The thing that caught my attention in your photos is the groove worn into your rotor. Did you address this?

I didn’t know enough to know this. I guess I’ll have to take off the tires & inspect.
please suggest any action I might need to take.

 

[Dbl-J]

More specifically, any suggestions outside of Google-ing the cause & common solutions. I got ~40,000 miles thus far & avoid at nearly all cost for using my regular foot brake or cruise control initiated foot brake. Seems a stretch to need new brake pads at 40K miles?

 

[R1Thor]

More specifically, any suggestions outside of Google-ing the cause & common solutions. I got ~40,000 miles thus far & avoid at nearly all cost for using my regular foot brake or cruise control initiated foot brake. Seems a stretch to need new brake pads at 40K miles?

It may look more alarming than it is.

Have a shop check the surface with a profilimeter or micrometer. They will know how much groove depth is acceptable.

This is likely not a defect but something as innocuous as a rock chip or brake dust buildup. If it's still contaminated (read: rock is still there), it should be removed.

If the groove in the rotor is deeper than allowable, the shop should be able to resurface it for you.

 

[captainjp]

??
I would add that the shop should resurface both rotors to the same thickness as to mitigate uneven wear.

 

[RoBoRaT R1S]

So the owners manual details how to do a tire rotation DIY? I know there's a lot of DIY stuff in the Tesla owners manual, was hoping Rivian had the same thing but haven't seen it on their website yet.

The Tire Service Guide is here:
https://assets.rivian.com/2md5qhoea...9a24/R1-tire-service-guide-en-us-20240304.pdf

 

[RoBoRaT R1S]

A great shout out to Costco Newport News VA for doing a great job changing tires on my R1T. As they lifted the truck on all 4 points, 1 of the 4 Jack pucks was sliding on their lift points (plastic surface). The manager had excellent attention to detail, as he carefully tested the lift & saw the puck was sliding a 1/4 inch on 2 attempts.
They switched to lifting each corner separately & installing the tires 1 at a time. Far more time required (~1.5 hrs)
With this in mind, It’s probably only practical to buy 1 jack pucks,

which will prompt any tire shop to only lift your Rivian 1 corner at a time. I’m sure the Rivian service centers have solved this issue.

The Rivian Tire Service Guide does not recommend the use of “jack puck” but to remove the rail plastic panel and place the jack under the lift point on the frame rail.

 

[Mark_AZR1T]

Rivian vehicles have four designated jack points, each designed to work with a "jack puck" as the primary interface between the jack and chassis. This is the standard method used by Rivian service centers and field technicians when lifting the vehicle at a customer’s home or location.

However, Rivian doesn’t provide jack pucks—except for their bulky "Eiffel Tower" contraption included in the optional spare tire kit. While removing the underbody panels is an alternative, no Discount Tire or service shop is going to hassle with detaching panels and clips just to lift your vehicle.

Below is a picture of what Rivian uses. We just made a much better one.

Rivian Jack Puck (below), which comes with the optional spare tire kit (an updated version is also available).

Rivian Field Service Jack Puck (below)

Our Version Below

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