Iamuwere
Active Member
- Thread starter
- #1
So I have been on a multi week trek of figuring out the bass in the R1S.
It started with the usual threads here.
I did an NVX amp and speaker level converter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NGTM4X7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09CJDBTQQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
The amp is small and efficient. In the end, a cheaper and simpler line level converter would have been better.
I started with an NVX subwoofer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0946DF5VP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I installed a boatload (literally an entire of box) of sound deadening material on the box and every surface around that corner of the R1S. It still had rattles and vibrations. So I thought I had a bad cone that was vibrating and I returned it.
The NVX fit right into the original box, no problem. Just drill new holes.
So I went with the often recommended JL dual voice coil 4ohm shallow mount.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610TW3/JL-Audio-10TW3-D4.html
This does NOT fit easily in the factory box. You need to enlarge the mounting hole about 3/8" all around. Lots of grinding to get it to fit.
Get it in there, and there is still just as much noise and rattle. I tried moving deadening, isolation mounts, etc. Still just didn't sound good.
Out of frustration I bought a simple thin sealed box to see how it would sound. It is night and day difference better. Like so much better. Crisp, clean, solid and no vibrations at all. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BXE8ZHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
After experimening with this was the way I was going to go, I swapped the connector for a dual input into the box. It fits quite nicely into the bottom of the spare tire area with plenty of room for the amp, tow ropes, jack, pucks, etc and fits under the top tray that goes into the spare area.
In the end, the NVX sub would have saved me almost $400 and would have been way more than enough bass for what I need. With the JL and the NVX amp, it basically is set at the lowest level power and has more than enough bass with this amp/speaker.
BUT
If I were to do it again, I would skip all of this install that everyone has done and simply go with a small powered/integrated sub that fits in the tire well and has speaker level inputs taken from the original sub. It would have been faster, cheaper, and cleaner. Plenty of options for an integrated sub that would be under $200 and provide a big increase vs stock bass. It wouldn't be competition level bass, but that isn't what I wanted. I just wanted better.
(no this isn't the final wiring, but just wanted to show how it all fits in there. It is cleaned up now, don't hate me.
It started with the usual threads here.
I did an NVX amp and speaker level converter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NGTM4X7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09CJDBTQQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
The amp is small and efficient. In the end, a cheaper and simpler line level converter would have been better.
I started with an NVX subwoofer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0946DF5VP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I installed a boatload (literally an entire of box) of sound deadening material on the box and every surface around that corner of the R1S. It still had rattles and vibrations. So I thought I had a bad cone that was vibrating and I returned it.
The NVX fit right into the original box, no problem. Just drill new holes.
So I went with the often recommended JL dual voice coil 4ohm shallow mount.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610TW3/JL-Audio-10TW3-D4.html
This does NOT fit easily in the factory box. You need to enlarge the mounting hole about 3/8" all around. Lots of grinding to get it to fit.
Get it in there, and there is still just as much noise and rattle. I tried moving deadening, isolation mounts, etc. Still just didn't sound good.
Out of frustration I bought a simple thin sealed box to see how it would sound. It is night and day difference better. Like so much better. Crisp, clean, solid and no vibrations at all. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BXE8ZHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
After experimening with this was the way I was going to go, I swapped the connector for a dual input into the box. It fits quite nicely into the bottom of the spare tire area with plenty of room for the amp, tow ropes, jack, pucks, etc and fits under the top tray that goes into the spare area.
In the end, the NVX sub would have saved me almost $400 and would have been way more than enough bass for what I need. With the JL and the NVX amp, it basically is set at the lowest level power and has more than enough bass with this amp/speaker.
BUT
If I were to do it again, I would skip all of this install that everyone has done and simply go with a small powered/integrated sub that fits in the tire well and has speaker level inputs taken from the original sub. It would have been faster, cheaper, and cleaner. Plenty of options for an integrated sub that would be under $200 and provide a big increase vs stock bass. It wouldn't be competition level bass, but that isn't what I wanted. I just wanted better.
(no this isn't the final wiring, but just wanted to show how it all fits in there. It is cleaned up now, don't hate me.
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