Search results

Depends on how much you drive daily, I can sometimes go several weeks without charging. Public charging an EV is usually more expensive than gasoline so be ready for sticker shock. I personally would not buy one if I couldn't charge at home.

How are you charging the battery? Wired directly to 12v or some other way?

Home assistant

Original battery specs are here EVP_DCS_DataSheet_08312022.pdf can't help you with dimensions for adapter plates but if you are capable of replacing the battery I'm sure you can figure out the terminal locations on the replacement, they don't have to be in exact same location just close enough...

About 10 minutes at jump leads to get frunk and door open. My batteries were completely dead at 0 volts so had to leave jump battery connected directly to battery with the terminal blocks disconnected until voltages equalized between batteries and get enough voltage for the charger to recognize...

If your goal is to make it driveable after 12v failure in a remote area then the chances are slim if the 12v is really dead like at 0 volts or can't hold a charge for that I'd recommend just carrying a spare battery and tools to swap it. If the goal is to be able to get access to the vehicle...

The adapters only have pass through connections so the charger wouldn't know which adapter is plugged in.

Only if you leave all this hooked up and take it in for service for electrical issues. It would be wise to remove all this prior to service visits. Yes someone will bring up magnuson moss act but good luck trying to prove your case.

I personally haven't tried this but I see no reason why you couldn't. The HV charger doesn't have a direct connection to the 12v.

Plugging the vehicle keeps the HV topped up but doesn't directly charge the 12v so you'd still lose 1-2kw per night. The tender will only use a few watts per night so if the goal is to save energy then the tender is the way to go.

Also if you miss an update cycle it probably won't be able to update until you place a service call to resend updates. Best to use a battery tender.

if you aren't getting the warning and Rivian hasn't reached out to you to replace it I don't think they will just replace it in warranty. Maybe if you are seeing excessive vampire drain greater than 3% a night they may make an exception if you make an issue out of it.

Anyone that didn't know this is what all good BMS does probably isn't really going to understand this. They'll still stop by to complain.

Don't ignore it and keep it plugged in as often as you can until replaced. Carry a battery jump pack and get familiar with how to get into the vehicle when it dies. It will leave you stranded if not addressed soon. If you are planning any trips away from a charger I'd take another car.

Posting a snapshot of what the trickle charger solves. Notice the sleep wake cycle just becomes a long sleep cycle once the 12v is fully charged, otherwise it's sleep a few hours, wake up and charge for a few hours and repeat endlessly until driven or charged.

If I have to guess it's the vaunted zonal architecture which basically reduces many tiny compute modules to a few larger ones saving the manufacturer on build costs but the consumer is paying for it with significant vampire drain powering a larger computer for constant connectivity.

25's are seeing similar vampire drain so this fix will help with that. As for that battery we'll see next winter if it really is any better that's about the time frame most of the gen 1 started showing issues.

It's a warning for the really inept ones thinking it will charge their high voltage battery.

Maybe but if your 12v is already out of warranty and I'm going to pay for a replacement then at that point I won't really care if it messes with Rivian data collection or their battery health flag.

My state didn't build a single station with the funds and we are a full on Democrat state all about pushing EVs. So what was taking so long? I think it's worth pausing and looking into all the bureaucracy behind the dispensing of funds.