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These have come out in the last year, I haven't tried them but a friend in the tire industry recommended them to me: https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-all-terrain-t-a-ko3/p/157591 The 22" KO3s are probably all you would need...I'm not an expert but I think sidewall is more...

While I never specifically checked the math, my numbers seemed roughly correct when compared against themselves in the first 20k miles, but the mi/kWh number has been on a downward trajectory since then. I just did a roundtrip drive MI-FL-MI and while I don't usually check last 15 min...

Gross capacity is 135kWh in Gen 1 large. Which actually makes it even more impressive.

Could yours be one of the software locked Large+ vehicles? I don't think they told everyone that purchased...if so--big win!

To connect ABRP live data:

So I had not connected ABRP live data until just now. ABRP states 130.9 kWh. I had driven the vehicle down to 85% SoC since this experiment. Considering the "Battery capacity" is likely a calculation based on battery calibration, if you are looking to get the absolute highest number, my guess...

The charge took about 12 hours. My EVSE is usually 10.5-11kW and it did not de-rate. I have had issues with de-rating in the summer when the plug gets warm, though. Yes, technically there is even more usable capacity below 0 mi / 0%. Most of what I've seen elsewhere online is a progressively...

This post covers the results from a personal test I just did on my 2022 Launch Edition Quad Large R1S. For those wondering about battery degradation or curious about capacity after significant use, read on. Note, I don't consider this to be a battery degradation test, however, because I did not...

DEFINITELY CERAKOTE. There is another thread that I posted my before and after pictures in: https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/cleaning-black-plastic-on-rocker-panel.31526/#post-630567

To clarify first, the word "pre-condition" can apply to car climate, battery, or both. I don't believe you are implying some additional type of "pre-conditioning". Your efficiency during your morning drive is mainly better because the car has already spent energy to bring up the temperature...

Here's what I know after many personal tests this week. I have a Gen 1 Quad, but I am almost certain this applies to all Rivians: If you specifically want your battery at 50degF when you leave, you MUST schedule a climate setting with power pulling from the wall. IN ADDITION, you must make sure...

Stick with the 22"s...I also had a super loud R1T loaner with 20"s. They said tires needed to be rotated, but I've also heard this complaint among others after 15k miles on 20"s. The Michelin Defender LTX M/S2 have been getting good reviews on sound and ride. I haven't had any issues with my OEM...

Their complaint about efficiency at the end feels undeserving. I don't think any other EV this size achieves nearly the same mi/kW. Hummer, Lightning, G wagon....Driving 80mph on the highway is going to eat up the battery in any SUV. I might do it anyway, but I'm not gonna complain about it!

I should mention, I have a Gen 1, this may be different for vehicles with a heat pump.

I think in that first 10 miles, the car is saving some heat energy because the motors are already operating to a certain level already and so net energy cost to heat the battery is less. This is my understanding.

It may be a conscious choice by Rivian to not waste/consume additional energy. Many people simply don't need full range and only drive tens of miles in a day. In the event I need a warm battery for a large trip, I will choose to charge to 90% overnight then set to 100% in the morning.

I want to clarify..I have a Gen 1 R1S and if I schedule climate conditioning with it set to draw power from the wall when plugged in, my car does in fact heat the battery to ~50degF. I just did this today.

Battery temp does make a difference but if you look at the whole of energy expenditure, heating the battery with energy from the battery upfront does not improve total trip efficiency. So again, to reiterate, OP won't be able to condition to a 50degF battery at this time unless it is plugged...

I just looked at my car and yes it was heating the battery. My car was at 69%, charging set to 70% during evening hours but it still took power from the wall in the experiment. So in the end, the current answer to the problem is the car must be plugged in, climate conditioning must be...

There are two main reasons to pre-heat battery: range (if taking power from the wall) and performance (both acceleration and regen deceleration) I just did a manual climate condition for 20 mins and the battery stayed at 35degF and I lost some range even though I was plugged in, but that is...