I currently have the standard GOAT slider/step on my R1T and would be interested in these minimal sliders. The closer they can look to these, the better IMO.
Drawer does work in Gen 1. You have to really push to get it to lock then drawer opens/closes without issue. When drawer Is closed it seems that the bottom track isn't attached to anything (except for rear lock) but when open it's solid. Hard to explain but I have no issues with this.
I’m aware of what they claim but I can only speak to my local DT. It certainly doesn’t mean they’re actually RF balancing it or using it correctly. Considering the weights changed location every time over 6 balances with them (and gouged rim barrels due to knocking off weights with...
Oof that’s not fun. Fairly sure DT isn’t road force balancing. I am, however, certain that Rivian is since advisor gave me the force readings they got off of each wheel.
I recently had them replace my steering wheel with a heavier, revised version which removed 80% of my vibrations. Was able...
I've been chasing a highway shake for a while. 7000 miles on new K03s along with 6 balances. Now switched to Toyo AT3 EVs and after alignment / road force balance at the SC, I still have a slight vibration right around 65mph.
My truck used to be 100% smooth up to 111mph. Nothing particular...
Just got the truck back from service. I was able to get my apppointment moved up a few weeks to 1/24. Front clunk turned out to be a passenger side CV axle with too much lash. They replaced it and a leaking motor seal up front as well.
Additionally, I had a rear suspension groan which turned...
Thanks! It’s all in the details. That’s half the fun for me when tinkering with vehicles.
My truck is a 2022 with dual horns. I loosened the horns from below the frunk tub (4? bolts and 2 connectors.. easy enough to remove) and ran the light wiring through those 2 openings. The horns have some...
Same exact part being replaced on my truck right now. Started having a creaking noise rear left over small bumps and suspension loading/unloading. They had to order the part. It did sound like a dry bushing to me so not surprised it would be an improper torque issue.
I was also having an axle...
I mostly meant them complaining about having to remove it to get access to CV axles/front motor.
I've removed aftermarket parts in the past just in case. A skid plate is innocuous enough to leave it on to see if they say anything...
Just ran these for 7 months. Had a really hard time balancing them (6 tries) so I got them swapped out for the new Toyo AT3 EV tires after 6000 miles.
They are very heavy tires compared to the OEM Pirellis (~65lbs vs. 48lbs? or something like that). I ran mine anywhere from 55psi to 60psi.
My truck goes into service center in 2 days for front CV axle issues.
Is it worth putting the OEM skid back on so they can't give me any hassle about aftermarket parts? I mean it's the same number of bolts to remove it...
Switched from OEM 20s to BFG KO3s in April 2024, took 3 tries to balance them at DT. Had a tire rotation over the summer and shimmy came back at 70mph. I imagine there was a shimmy in a rear tire that I couldn't feel until it was moved to the front.
3 more tries to balance them and DT finally...
Yup sounds the exact same. Looking forward to knowing what the issue/fix is.
From what these other threads mention, it’s most likely CV axle / hub bearings and not a safety issue… for now.
I carry a spare tie-rod just in case. Someone out there makes a sleeve to reinforce the OEM units but as the popular argument dictates, I'd rather break a tie rod than the steering rack.
I've heard later production R1s had thicker tie-rods, not sure if true.
An aftermarket bumper seems like a...