Recent content by mkhuffman

"The real cause of problems is government solutions". Fixed it! Reminds me of "I'm from the government and I am here to help". Run away! Run away!

1. Because your math formula and input variables are wrong. 2. The AI bot you are using isn't properly trained.

The market would react like you see it reacting to the Cybertruck.

I am worried Virginia will follow along with this idiotic mandate. If VA becomes like CA, I am moving out of the state.

That looks nice but it would be too low and cover too much of the screen for my taste. IMO it needs to be higher and more to the left, similar to the Everyamp one.

Most of his responses are AI copy and paste. The really short responses might actually be a human being, but who knows? Whatever AI he is using isn't very good, that's for sure. If you hide the tire data he will still claim the 20s are more efficient because of a 10 minute drive.

Your AI bot is wrong.

They might be able to eek out a few more percent with a more efficient drive train, but there is no way to overcome the size of the R1. They did some great aerodynamic work on the huge brick, but it is still a huge brick. To truly hit 400 miles of highway range in the R1 body style, a bigger...

I got a "low wiper fluid" alert on the dashboard and was surprised because I had recently added fluid. An entire bottle, actually. It took another bottle and then I noticed fluid dripping down the front bumper under the camera. Now I have washer fluid all over my garage floor also. Fun times.

I have this leak also. Just noticed it yesterday. It would not be mistaken for a leak near a front wheel, but I second the idea thdt maybe the OP's leak is washer fluid.

Yes but a lot of people are looking to match or beat the efficiency of the 21" OEM setup. It is very unlikely to be possible without a low rolling resistance 20" option. Hankook came out with a low rolling resistance tire that fits on the R1, so I bet they make one they fits the R2 after...

Wheel efficiency in order of impact: 1. Rolling resistance is the most important factor by far. 2. Aerodynamics is the second most important factor, which becomes even more import the faster you drive. 3. Weight. It is almost irrelevant but it does impact acceleration resistance, and...

Using the math for my local power rates, I would need to shift 100% of my power to the lower rates and even then it will take years to break even. The problem is if you use electricity during the peak rates it can offset any savings you get by shifting some to the lower rate. It's a very cool...

Why? Because I want a true 400 mile highway range vehicle. I typically get 2.4 miles/kWh on the highway, which means I could go 432 miles with a 180 kWh battery. That is almost 100 miles farther than I can currently go on the highway with my R1T. Game changer.

I have considered switching to a TOU plan and doing just what you described. Have you run the math and how long does it take for the electricity cost savings pay for the Anker?