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Ah, yes, my eyes went to the wrong line. 6AWG THHN copper is rated for 75A at 90 degrees C.
No electrons are transferred from the EVSE to the vehicle during the charging process.
An "intermittent" load is defined as one that stays connected continuously for 3 hours or less, NEC defines EVSE to be a continuous (more than 3 hr) load whether it is on for less than 3 hours or not (and, of course, at Level 1 or 2 it very will may be on for more than 3 hours). Circuits serving continuous loads must be derated to 80% of the values given in the NEC ampacity tables. The idea is that the heat dissipated in time t is poportional to the integral of i^2*t and that, therfore,, heat can build up over time.
The breakers you most likely have in your panels have two tripping mechanisms: thermal and magnetic. The thermal trip mechanism will allow slight overcurrent for a long time but will trip faster as the current increases. Look at the breaker part number. You can then look up the range of trip times for a given level of overload on graphs published by the manufacturer. As you probably expect the breaker has a wire which is heated by the current. Heat can only escape at a limited rate so if there is enough i^2 for a long enough time that the wire gets hot enough it will deform a bimetal strip and releast the latch.
Code requires that conductors must be required for the lesser of the insulation temperature or terminal temperature rating. THHN may be rated to 90 °C but if used with a breaker with terminals rated 75 °C you must use the 75 ° ratng even though the insulation is 90 °C insulation. There are exceptions (the infamous NM-B) which must be sized for 60°C even though its insulation is 90 °C insulation,
Yes it is but you may not use that rating unless the terminals on the breaker AND in the EVSE are both rated for 90 °C which they aren't (not sure about the EVSE and you can buy 90°C breakers but you aren't likely to find them in a residential setting), You must use the 75 ° rating for No. 6 which is 65A and clearly adequate for a 60 A breaker
Ha. Actually considering hardwire connection for reliability. My Wifi is spotty in the garage and 100ft ethernet cable is cheaper than another WiFi repeater or mesh node. As long as I will be pulling cable, I figure this may be the way to go.
The safest bet is 6/2 or 6/3 THHN tray cable or sepaate 6 AWG THHN coductors in conduit or 6 AWG MC. That i surely electrically safe and meets NEC and, therfore, probably your local code too.
As has been discussed here at great, great length you may not use NM-B and be compliant with NEC. Some chose to ignore this fact and use it anyway because the conductors in NM-B have 90 ° insulation but, unless your local code gives you a waiver against the NEC prohibition you are at risk that a local inspector will fail your installation or that an insurance company may deny a fire claim if they find NM-B in your hook-up.
Being a DIY puts you at additional risk. If an electrician screws it up you could ultimately sue him. If you DIY there is no one.
Not that I can see.
Not clear on what you did. You show pictures of 14-50R receptacles which would NOT be proper replacement on a 30A circuit but you do show the 14-30P adapter which would be OK if you had installed a 14-30R receptacle.
